IPD offers poly bushings:

Upper Engine Mount
Engine Stabilizer Bar Bushings
Subframe Bushing Inserts
Transmission Torque Rod Bushings

What is your experience?

Which ones are most and least important?

Thanks

2002 V70 T-5 Automatic 5 Cyl

The upper engine mount is usually the first to go. Have you looked at the rubber for cracks, deterioration etc.? Highly advise replacing with an OEM rubber mount or you will have excessive vibration as Derek mentioned. How many miles on the car? On 850’s the upper engine mount usually needs replacement by 150k.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Mine is a 2000 V70. Yes my top mount was starting to split when I bought the car 110k miles. Bought the similar lower engine steady too. I selected the later type of top mount with the non round rubber as a complete unit. Easy to fit. Splits were more obvious with the old one off the car. Lower one fitted later and that was completely shot. Recently had the lower timing side engine mount changed and that too had started to seperate. Engine now ticks over noticeable smoother. Non of these are particularly expensive and are easy to fit. Side engine mount needs a bit of care. See Robert DIY on the Tube. Not touched the "spherical" front and rear ones, my garage said they looked to be OK. Poly is not for me.

Replaced the lower front engine mount (below timing belt) on my 95 850 at around 200k miles. Sold car at 250k having only replaced that and the upper engine mount. Although one of the tranny bushings was visibly starting to crack at that stage....

More bushing/mount talk - This is a little off topic but also replaced front strut mounts (when I did the struts) and the rear shock mounts. Never replaced any other suspension rubber.

Just an observation, but it seems like the rubber in the FWD cars generally seems to last longer than the RWD cars.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....

Thanks to all - I will stay with original VOLVO bushings.

The top engine mount is the 'T' shaped one - I can get the newer ROUND one and the casting as well from Toronto Volvo for $84 - sounds good.

Is the Round one OK to use in your opinion(s) ? or stay with 'T' - its a Turbo

Has 230 Kilometers = 130,000 Miles

The type with the T shaped, not really a T but hard to describe, insert as opposed to the round one is an improved version fitted to to late P1 and then into the P2 cars. Technically better and may have longer life. However, unlike the earlier ones with the round bush you can't just change the bush at less cost. Stick with what you have. I'll repeat, check the one underneath. The bushes are small so can wear out much faster the the top one. There was hardly any bush left in the one that came off mine. That showed up much more when it was off the car. Easy to change and not expensive. Avoid the ultra cheap knock off copies.

So if I understand correctly go with the original one - Volvo part # 30680770

And will check the lower ones as well.

Late to the party. I do agree with the "pseudo-racer" admonishment.
If anyone is counting his pennies to buy these poly bushings I suggest spending that money on better tires and better dampers.



>Upper Engine Mount: Don't do on a P1 as the mount goes to the firewall and transmits huge vibrations. My cylindrical bushing crumbled and I wanted to have a lifetime replacement. After trying the cylindrical poly I refreshed my '99's mount with the rubber Volvo part. My old one needed no drilling or hammering to remove as many who posted at the time did. The Volvo part was $16.

However, the "square" design of the P2's mount has play built into it. Here the poly mount is indistinguishable and will last.


>Engine Stabilizer Bar Bushings: I added these because they were dirt cheap and I read somewhere that the stabilizer doubles as a "strut tower stiffener". I didn't feel any change but I didn't expect to as I don't drive spiritedly.
I did not like the way the original setup wobbled about.

>Subframe Bushing Inserts: These too were on sale ($20) and I had read of some improvement. Though small, I liked the improvement in road feel. More importantly I wanted to skip the maintenance task of replacing dried, crumbled subframe bushings. While I'm no suspension engineer, I'd bet filling the voids, which make the bushings nearly solid, will prolong their lives.

>Transmission Torque Rod Bushings: I've only had one of these go on another make of car. I should check mine!

>Glaring Omission: Poly front control arm bushings are something I'd recommend. I bought a pair of control arms at a junkyard and had Power-Flex brand polys pressed in at a local shop. It saved time on my friend's lift.

If I wanted to drive fast (and grind my tires down) I'd install a front anti-roll bar from the company mentioned in the first post. That's a doable and substantial modification.

None are important until they need replacement. Mostly poly bushes have negative effects with regard to noise, vibration, harshness NVH. Be prepared not to like how things turn out after you fit them. Speed freaks and pseudo racers fit them for brownie points and supposed benefits to driving behaviour. Most will be very happy how the car feels after fitting good quality/Volvo OEM replacements.