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I left my car sitting in an unheated garage for 3 years. Just got it running, and I noticed that the directional signals do not work, nor do any lights (dash or headlight) in the headlight on position of the switch. If I hit the high beams switch, the high beams come on while the stalk switch is pulled and held. The four way flashers do work. The parking and dash lights work in the parking light switch position.
Suggestions on what to suspect first? It is a bit humid in the garage at times. Was wondering if I should look at switches, fuses, relays first.
Thank you for any suggestions! Glad to see this place is still here.
Don
'98 S70 T5 60,000 mi
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Welcome back!
Fuses are easiest. Any evidence of chewing critters?
Rotate the headlight switch a few times, might be a bit of corrosion.
Check the grounds around the headlights, especially behind the passenger side headlight.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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OK, so I found a page online that mentioned my symptoms as a subset of theirs. They also had TRACS light ON. This thread referred to a relay 106, and swapping with relay 105 to check to see if 106 was the cause of headlights and signals not working. This was also a 1998 S70. This appeared to be in a kidney shaped box in the engine compartment, containing both the long rectangular fuse area with 30 or so fuses as well as 8 relays labeled 101 through 108.
I found a somewhat similarly shaped box labeled "Main Fuses" near the strut tower, but that looks like about 10 fuseable links and 4 relays associated with the engine. Up near the windshield I have the 30 or so fuse block, but they are under a rectangular lid, not like the diagram I saw in the thread (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21088). No relays. So, I went to another possibility - the ignition switch...
EDIT 2 - I just saw a video where the cover of the 30 fuses is attached to a larger cover that conceals the relays - but the problem appears to be not be a relay after all...
I found that if I jostled the switch a bit with the car running, the headlights came on for a moment. Then I shut off the car and went to position II, and found the headlights and signals work fine with the car not running. Back to running, and no lights or signals. With some further jostling, the lights and signals work. It appears to be the switch.
EDIT 1 - I just saw a video of servicing the ignition switch, by removing the plastic shroud around the steering column. It looks like the contact can easily be accessed. I should be able to use some contact cleaner there. It looks deceptively easy.
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There are 2 torx screws under the steering column that hold on the plastic. Pull the steering wheel away from the dash as far as possible and down after the screws are out. The 850 had 4 screws and 2 were a pain.
The electrical portion of the switch is on the left hand side of the column. It is prone to failure and a new one is probably best. Do NOT disconnect the wires! You will then have a hell of a time trying to figure out which one goes where.
As far as the relays go, in the engine compartment, the 4 T25 screws have to be loosened (not completely removed). Then the top cover pulled straight up and the relays will be revealed. They are under the fuses.
There is an additional relay area under the dash, to the left of the steering wheel and under the engine compartment fuses.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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Thanks Klaus. Sounds like good advice to me. I thought further after I posted (I am a bit sluggish in the brain, and go on visual clues only sometimes), and it occurred to me that what I thought I saw in a YT video was not as it seemed. The guy pulled the round black end off the left side of the switch, leaving what I thought were contacts that make/break. Looking at a picture of the switch, those look like connector pins now - something like the bottom of a vacuum tube. The switch is inside the metal housing. So the "servicing" I thought I can do is probably not possible - it is likely sealed. Haven't pulled it yet.
I appreciate the tip on the location of the additional relay, if I need to go there! Yes, the screws on the clamshell are easy on the S70 compared to the 850.
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I took mine apart by spreading the 4 crimps. There are 'normal' copper switches inside which can be sanded down with a metal finger nail file. The metal 'titts' can corrode.
When you get the new one, take the old one apart and save it for a spare? I have one in my parts box, just in case.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new
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I believe I would have pursued the same course you suggested after I discovered how the switch is made, but I have always been a sucker for the power of suggestion. I discovered that there is one position where there is only one contact mount pressing against the nylon inside, versus 4 or 5 in other positions. To get is back together I pressed a dowel through the hole in the cover, against the arbor of the switch, while sliding the cover back on. Otherwise, the arbor skews due to the pressure of the contact mount.
I checked the action of the switch before disassembly with a large screwdriver, and I thought there was a "hitch" in the position II (I get my #'s confused - the "RUN" position). Once reassembled I did not notice this same feeling.
The contacts looked good visibly, but I believe the cleaning (with a No 2 file and DeOxit) in fact helped. Out of a set of 18 files, only one would fit between the contacts. Your suggestion of a nail file I should have heeded - I believe it would be thinner.
Try as I might with a vise, I could not close the gap between the edge of the cover and the base totally. I would estimate 1/64" was left. Good enough for government work. I appreciate your input and experience Klaus - as always. $55 or so saved, for now.
Don
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I have done that same kind of switch repair in the (distant) past - undoing crimps, recrimping. I'm going to pull it out, put a meter on it and see if I can replicate poor continuity. Then possibly try to resurrect it. I saw a comment online that there is an internal spring that can weaken. Same spring perhaps that returns key from the start position. That might explain why some people report rotating slightly counterclockwise while car is running corrects lights issue. This car is not needed so I have the luxury to experiment.
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Hey there Klaus - it's like a soap opera - you can miss months (years) and it's like you never left. Good to see some familiar, dedicated faces.
I thought about this post today, and realized "someone is going to say did you check the fuses" - DUH! No, not yet and it will be the 1st thing to do.
When I made the post, my thought was someone may have confronted a similar situation and found moisture is an issue with switches. The inside of the car has a slight mildew appearance on surfaces - whitish. I did try to operate them multiple times, with no luck.
There have been mice in this building in the past. The car was up in the air a few feet, hood open to discourage tenants. I don't see evidence yet mice have been at it.
On another board, Matthew's, a wiring diagram of the S70 was posted. I may become a member so I can download it if the link is still valid. I'll post back when I find out something.
Don
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