My wife went to move the car tonight, and the dash went black, car wouldn't start, seat wouldn't move. I went out, and noticed the left front parking light (maybe others, too) was blinking. Somewhere in there, the windshield wipers started going back and forth (not at the setting indicated by the lever). A jumper box did not change the behavior. Our son and I did some checking. Battery was showing 12.32 volts, and the terminals were clean, clamps tight. Right at the end of the testing, I tried starting it again, and the battery voltage went from 12 to 6 volts, where it seemed to stay.

Bad battery? Gremlins in the circuits?

It's acting like an older British car, which is not a pleasant thought.

If we have to have it towed, it won't be until Monday (dealership doesn't have weekend hours, although our mechanic across the street works on Saturday), and, at the moment, it's facing up the narrow driveway and blocking our RV, which I had planned to take into the tire place Monday to check something. Is there a non-destructive way to override the shifter lockout, so I can put it in neutral and roll it down to the street, both so it can be towed and so I can get the RV out?

Thanks, Klaus. I'll keep that good information in mind for future disasters that I hope never happen. The problem turned out to be a failing battery. Boy, these modern electronic, fancy cars sure go nuts when the power isn't perfect!

An hour of getting out the battery*, taking it down to the auto parts store, buying new battery, installing, etc. - and it seems to be fine.

I'm confused by auto batteries. Over the years, I've seen more sudden failures than I have slow decline. My wife drove that car to an appointment yesterday, half an hour each way, and it was fine. Then, last night, she tried to move it down the driveway, and the battery was bad.

By the way, Klaus, do you EVER sleep? Seems I can rely on you to post the first response - and I am always very grateful!
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*The battery is in a box at the back of the engine compartment. The hold down is at the right front corner of the box, with one battery cable running above it, and about an inch of clearance to the side of the box. Once again, as I have often been over the years, I was grateful for all the yard sale tool purchases I've made; I was able to reach the hold down, once the 6" long bolt was removed, with a spring installation tool, a long, thin hook on a handle. I used the same tool to manipulate the hold down into position when installing the new battery. Why, oh why, do the engineers assume everyone's got 8" long fingers the thickness of feeler gauges, and the flexibility and strength of squid tentacles?

I'm glad you resolved it. If that was an original battery, it was getting on in years. Especially with newer cars that not only drain the battery with the multiple computers and security software. The AC being on with the blower on high doesn't help much.

Used to be, the car's electronics were happy until the battery voltage dropped below 9V. Not any more! Anything under 12V will result in strange things, like wipers being activated because of the rain sensor going goofy.

As to sleep, I normally don't turn on my PC until 1000 central time, after coffee and newspaper. Retirement is underrated!

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Keeping it running is better than buying new

Try locking and unlocking the door 5 times. It may be the security module shorted out.

For shift lock override, check page 111 of the owner's manual:

If the vehicle cannot be driven, for example because of a dead battery, the gear selector must be moved from the P position so that the vehicle can be moved1.

Lift away the rubber mat on the floor of the storage compartment behind the center console and open the hatch.

Insert the key blade into the opening as far as possible. Press the key blade down and keep it held down. Move the gear selector from the P position.
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Keeping it running is better than buying new