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cRaZy ETM on S80 2.5 Turbo S80



I am working on a friend's 2005 S80 2.5T FWD with only 70k miles (immaculate/like showroom new), and while driving it quit and wouldn't re-start, but finally started and ran rough, but he got it to a shop at reduced speed.

It had the "Reduced Engine Performance" illuminated

They pulled the following DTCs
1) 925C Elect Throttle Module Unit Signal Too High
2) 9200 Throttle Position Sensor Faulty Signal
3) Elect Throttle Unit Potientiometer 2 Faulty Signal
4) Throttle Unit Faulty Signal

They printed on the invoice : " Vehicle will need a throttle body"

They and the dealer wanted almost $1500 for a new ETM installed.

So knowing I have a commercial level shop, and knowing I'd had problems with my 2001 S60 T5 with my ETM, he asked me to install a new ETM for him, which I did.

When I got the car at my shop, it was running w/ no codes (the shop had reset all of them and they hadn't returned) , but the rpm was wandering and it had hesitation.

I changed the ETM (new Bosch "Plug-n-Play unit- NO computer flash req'd) and it ran like a kitten. I drove the car about 30mi and it was delightful. The battery was weak (low battery warning on cluster), so I fitted a new battery (The old one was the original 12+ year old battery!). I didn't hook up an aux battery during the switch (so the car lost power during the brief swap), and when I turned the ign on I had 3 DTCs, and I think they were:

1) 9270 Throttle Valve Faulty Signal
2) 925C Throttle Valve Signal Too High
3) can't remember

and the car was running VERY rough (like 4 out of 5 cylinders firing).

Figuring the battery change cause a "brain fart" in the computer, I reset the codes, at which point the car started and ran perfectly.

The owner picked up the car and drove it 20mi over a 4 day period.

Tonight he called me and said he was broken down (again) on the side of the road, and the Reduced Performance was showing and the car would barely idle, and the car would not move at all.

I drove out to rescue him and I observed the following DTCs

1) ECM-9270 Throttle Valve- Faulty Signal
2) ECM- 925C Throttle Valve- Signal too High
3) ECM-440B Fuel Level Sensor- Signal Missing

We also had an Intermittent Fault CEM-3F02 Shift Lock Signal Too High

I tried resetting the DTCs, but the car barely ran (like it was running on 3 of its 5 cylinders- REALLY REALLY rough, and the exhaust smelled of raw fuel), and the throttle pedal had absolutely NO effect on RPM like it was disconnected completely.

I disconnected the ETM at the unit a few times, reset the DTCs a few times, and sometimes the car would sort-of run (1400rpm idle, it would accelerate w/ throttle pedal).

After about 5 times doing this, after resetting any DTCs the car ran like a kitten again, and my friend drove home, with no DTCs showing.

At times, even with DTCs showing, the Check Engine light was NOT illuminated, which I thought was strange.

Obviously, we have ZERO confidence that the car will continue to run normally at this point.

I seriously doubt the new ETM is bad, and I question that the old one was ever bad, but we no longer get several of the "old" ETM codes the previous unit threw.

So, after all of this, does this ring any bells, and where would YOU go from here if you were I??








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    cRaZy ETM on S80 2.5 Turbo S80

    Yes, this DOES ring a bell - a $350 bell.

    Don't throw the original Bosch throttle module away. Instead, let it sit on the shelf for the next ?? years just like I'm doing because it probably won't ever be needed. When our 05 S80 2.5T went through the same scenario, I called my trusted Volvo independent mechanic "back home" (800 miles away) for advice. He said he NEVER saw one of the Bosch units go bad. I should have taken a hint.

    In our case the problem turned out to be the ECM connection. I didn't have the lock/unlock tool to reseat it but my new local Volvo indy did have one. They unseated and reseated the ECM - it's been at least a year now with no problem.

    Since a deteriorated connection is more age-related than mileage-related, it would make even more sense in your case with that low mileage car. (70K! That's unreal.) A shot of electronics cleaner on the contacts probably wouldn't hurt.

    The Haynes manual shows how to make your own ECM/TCM tool but I think they're getting affordable enough to just go buy one. If you're going to work on Volvos you'll need one around anyway.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-ECU-REMOVAL-TOOL-9995722-/201855820236

    Some guys on Youtube, etc, claim to have used a very small screwdriver instead of the tool. I tried that a little bit but I could see a risk in doing undesired damage.
    --
    Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)








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      cRaZy ETM on S80 2.5 Turbo S80

      Actually, I think you are RIGHT.

      I replaced the unit mostly because the owner brought me the diagnosis from another shop and he simply asked me to replace it, which I did.

      I noticed the plug-to-unit retaining clips were broken (someone broke them removing the plug at some point), but since it was retained well by friction, I didn't think much of it.

      Later, when the owner called me irate that his car was acting up, and demanded I drop everything and rescue him (which I did), and wiggling the plug changed the codes I was pulling with my code scanner I'd brought w/ me, I got suspicious of the connection.

      I got the car running well enough that the next day he dropped the car off and I re-made ALL of the under-hood grounds, and tried to slightly crimp the ETC/ETA connectors and spray them with contact cleaner, and then I used a tie-wrap to pull the plug and socket firmly together.

      It's been a month and I haven't heard from him, so I suspect that fixed it. Sadly, I lost a friend because I think he feels I should have "known" and not just done what he told me to do based on the written diagnosis from an independent Volvo shop he handed me.

      In the process, I learned that the newer S60/80 don't use ETMs like my '01 S60 T5, but simply use signals from the ECU to drive the throttle body motor, and are pretty bulletproof except for the fact the ETCs use more current for the motor and the connections must be resistance-free.

      I may try to re-sell the removed ECT/ETA with a money-back guarantee (after cleaning the throttle body throat well) to repay me for the frustration of tracking down the problem, with a warning to the buyer to clean the connections well and to make sure the connectors are firmly seated!







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