Quantcast
AWD - Spark plugs and anti seize

Volvo AWD C70 Forum

INDEX FOR 6/2019(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 5/2004 C70 INDEX [<<]  [>>]

THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Spark plugs and anti seize C70 2004

Do you use anti-seize on spark plug threads when replacing? And, what torque do you recommend? And how often do you replace? Recent removal of plugs (no anti seize) from my 2006 s40 that were torqued per factory were almost impossible to remove. Don't want this to happen to my c70. Thanks!
--
Steven 04 C70 HPT, 06 S40 2.4i, 11 c30 T5





Cut and paste link:



  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    Contrary to others, I never use anti-seize on my spark plugs.

    However, I do regularly remove the plugs to inspect or replace them. I never let them go more than 15,000 miles without taking a look.

    I give the threads a drop of 30W before reinstalling them.

    Perhaps if I was installing plugs for 100,000 mile intervals, I would consider using anti-seize.



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


    Cut and paste link:



  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    Were the plugs in for 10 years?

    All Volvo maintenance is by mileage and time.

    The best advice that I have heard is to pull them out every two years at most - examine them and re-use them if you must.

    When we purchased our '08 XC70 with 78K miles, I had them checked because I was leery about maintenance records, which I was told were complete. Although they were supposed to be changed at 60K, the plugs were marked Ford - right from the factory!



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


    Cut and paste link:



  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    YES! Always use Never-Seez 0n spark plug threads!
    Steel screws threaded into aluminum need Never-Seez.

    A mechanic who says otherwise should be avoided.

    I had that problem when I first got my 850, the plugs did not want to
    come out. After struggling to remove, the threads were galled and I needed to run a tap to clean the threads. A thin coating is all you need and the problem
    won't reoccur. I needed to do the same with the head cover to access the plugs.
    More steel screws, binding up in the aluminum head...Never Seez to the rescue.
    Also use on O2 sensors, taking care to keep the grease off the sensor element.

    Bill



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


    Cut and paste link:



  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    Have used small amounts of anti-seize for spark plugs in the past, am benefiting a huge amount from assoc. with a local comm mechanic now and he says to refrain from doing that. Am following his advice on this to date but still may put a very small amount of a-s onto the plug threads next compression test or plug change.

    Here is a possible tip for starting the plugs although am no mechanic: can use a ca. 6-8" rubber hose that fits snug over the plug tip and part way down the ceramic cone. You can still feel the threads engaging to hand-start the plugs and reaching the s.p. holes is easy this way. Of course you start by backing until the threads click then turn to start tightening being mindful to keep holding the plug/hose combo steady at the same angle as when you heard and felt the click. Works here great, am not too scared of cross-threading plugs/head anymore with this routine.

    Blew out the spark plug wells w/ compressed air before loosening any of the plugs, with a strong tight flashlight beam saw signif. crud in the wells and some of the crud was under the s.p. collar i.e. could not even be seen with the s.plugs in place, even with the tight flashlight.

    Also here do not tighten with a torque wrench. Just carefully snug. Well pretty snug but cautiously.

    Have three Volvos now: 1990 745T since 1998 1998 V70 AWD since 2014 on wife's request, is excellent trip car but learning curve has been steep with that one and 1996 850 with manual trans. since this last July. 850 n/a with manual surprisingly peppy. Lots of help over the years on all three cars from this Board and matthewsvolvosite.



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


    Cut and paste link:



    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

      Paul, I have a spark plug socket. There is a rubber O ring inside the socket that holds the plug. That and a 6" extension work great.

      For those that don't have an air compressor, find a can of compressed air with a straw. Just make sure you wear eye protection!

      Ignore the comm mechanic and use anti-seize every time the plugs come out. The plugs will not spin out on their own. Those old wive's tales about plugs blasting holes in the hood are just that. Or, someone who destroyed the threads and didn't bother to fix it...

      --
      Keeping it running is better than buying new



      Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


      Cut and paste link:



      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

        Hi Klaus and Folks,

        What kind of anti-seize?

        I still have a tube of lead-based anti-seize, that I'd used on my 240s, yet read on the RWD forum here that some folks use nickel-based anti-seize or molybdenum(?).

        I had some spark plug trouble with a prior owner / operator installed thread insert coming out with the spark plug on my 1992 240 a month ago! So, I was able to clean everything up, and the insert threaded back in when I did not want it to. Oh well. Yet got some Permatext brand anti-seize with Nickel in it for the spark plug thread.

        Yep, just to snug or a little more. The anti-seize reduces friction so you think it's not as tight as it may be otherwise.

        Hope that helps.

        Duffed.
        --
        Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.



        Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


        Cut and paste link:



        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

          Moly is prefered. Even a coating of engine oil works for a while. Steel threads in an aluminum head are not the best combination. Just don't be like the Japanese cars and leave them in for 100K...
          --
          Keeping it running is better than buying new



          Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


          Cut and paste link:



          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

            Hi Klaus,

            Thank you.

            I also have some nickel anti-seize by Permatex (I guess the maker). Yep, tighten to just past snug and no more.

            Was able to get the sleeve secured back in the #4 cylinder on the 1992 240.

            Though unrelated, I see no threads here on suggested spark plug brands for FWD/AWD Volvo, whether Turbo or not. As here on RWD, yet there you have the unending best oil for this and that:

            https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/779471/740/760/780/best_spark_plugs_b230.html

            Read through a facebook post, and a user wants to know best spark plug for 2000 S80. Dunno whether Turbo or not.

            https://www.facebook.com/groups/vopnw/permalink/1212497248919457/

            At any rate, a late thank you foe your guidance. I'll look up moly anti-seize.

            Thank you.
            --
            Donate NOW! Give your brickboard.com a big DONATION!!! Find the on brickboard pages!



            Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


            Cut and paste link:



  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    EDIT   PRINT   SAVE 

    Always, always, coat the spark plug threads with anti-seize. You don't need a lot, just a thin coating will do.
    The torque rating is around 25lbs, I don't bother with that. Snug and done, there can be a lot of torque applied with a 3/8 ratchet. Remember to always thread the plugs by hand until it stops turning before you put the ratchet on it.
    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new



    Mark this post as an answer to my question<- Use this feature to mark quality replies to your post.


    Cut and paste link:


<< < > >>


Users marked in green are currently online.

©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2016. All material except where indicated.


Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.

All participants agree to these terms.
Powered by Denizen - Custom Software for Enthusiasts