|
|
|
Not looking to start a flame war here, but wondering what the collective wisdom is on the newer cars. I'm coming from a 740 with a 500k on the clock and have always run dino 10/40 every 5k and the engine's original and still good.
In reading the owners manual last night, it said that it's not necessary to run full synthetic so long as the maintenance interval is observed. True/false? I'm in Colorado so whatever I go with needs to be multi viscosity. The owners manual also recommended 5/30.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
So this "should" be the last comment on this thread...maybe...;)
In spite of Steve's comments about 0W40, I'm probably going to go with the Volvo recommendation of 5W30. I have the oil filter wrench (< $10 at FCP, Steve), new Mann oil filter and new rubber ring on the way. The oil plug copper crush washer appears to be the same size as the one on the 740 and I have a bunch of those on hand, so I'm set there.
So my question is how much oil does the engine take? The owners manual calls for 5-6 quarts (?) and am wondering if anyone knows for sure how much an 05 S60 normally aspirated motor takes. I'd hate to pick up a 5 gallon jug and find I need another quart and have to run back out to pick it up...
Thanks much.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
I buy 6 quarts, pour in the 5 gallons and use the extra quart to 'top it off'.
BTW, I used a funnel in my left hand and the 5 gallon jug in my right hand, until the jug could be used without the funnel. Too bad they can't design a jug with a hand hold on the side.
Oil viscosity chart is in the owner's manual, near the back.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
People who talk about using lower grades of fuel are -
WAAAY BEHIND THE TIMES !!!!
I have emailed and written to Consumer Reports several times - challenging them to explain how engine management responds when a knock is sensed - they have never contacted me back. They tell people not to worry about using low octane fuel - the knock sensor will take care of it (if it is working!). The explanation that I have read is that the first action is to add more fuel to cool the combustion chambers. Changing timing will not work quickly as the ignition is already behind combustion.
One thing that they do not consider is the numbers as they relate to fuel prices VS mileage figures.
The percentage of prices between regular and premium are MUCH smaller that when fuel was 30 cents a gallon.
In a car that gets 20 MPG, one MPG is 20%!
Engine management is much different as well - Did auto engines manage themselves 40 years ago?
I contend that using lower octane uses more fuel and allowing the engine management system to do its thing properly is well worth the relatively small extra cost.
If you take the mileage that you get (actual or your estimate) and divide that into the miles that you drive in a year, then price it for a year for premium and regular, how many extra dollars do you spend?
For the year? for a week? per mile?
Besides, your engine will love you.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Thanks, guys.
The owner's manual calls for dino as does the dealer, buuuut I'd probably be better off in the long run with full synthetic even though it costs quite a bit more. Wondering if I can still go with my old Mann filters...I'll have to go check IPD and FCP and see what the recommended filter is.
I found out today in looking through the owner's manual that the car takes premium. First time for everything I guess. Thankfully, I'm not racking up the miles these days that I did when I was in the 740.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Send me your 'old' spin on Mann filters :)
Your car has filter inserts, also made by Mann. You might need a new tool to take the cover off.
Get your synthetic oil at Costco or WallyWorld, 5 quart containers.
91 octane is hard to get in some areas of CO, 89 octane will still work. The owner's manual is difficult to interpret because they do not specify Anti-knock Index which the USA and few other countries use, the rest of the world uses RON.
If you have a turbo, you will need the higher octane like 89+, if you want to push the rpms up over 5000. Once the engine begins to knock (you will never hear it), management takes over to enrich the burn and may limit the rpms a bit.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
KlausC wrote--"Get your synthetic oil at Costco or WallyWorld, 5 quart containers." In the last few months we've been driving our first white block Volvo - a 2002 S40, now with only 30k miles on it. I've changed the oil for the second time (using a name brand synthetic the first time in a 5 quart container and official Mini-Cooper 5w-30 the second in quart containers--son Dan is a M-C tech-the price was right). So -- my question is this - given the "strainer" located in the oil filler neck and the difficulty of being able to use a funnel -- does anyone have a convenient way of handling a 5 quart container while trying to fill the motor without spilling oil all over the cam cover? By convenient I mean without having to first pour the oil into a one quart container or having an assistant holding a normal funnel. -- Dave
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Sorry to disappoint, Klaus, but I'm not getting rid of the 740 so I'll need the spin on Mann filters a while more. My daughter is getting my old 89 and her 89 is going to be turned into a parts car. My other daughter drives a 91 wagon and needs the Mann filters as well.
I'm not running a turbo. I opted for the simplest, least expensive, lowest maintenance car. No AWD, no Turbo. About the only really trick part to the car, other than it's 16 years newer, is the ECC. Much as I liked driving the turbo I'm more of a green light dragster kind of guy and the turbos are dogs off the line, at least the one I drove. Maybe the later ones are better.
So. Given that I'm not running a turbo, it sounds mid grade or premium will work fine, yes? Or is it premium/full synthetic only here on out.
Thanks for the reply, Klaus.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Darn, I only have 2 more years of filters left...
Mid grade gas or premium is just fine. Always use synthetic, it keeps the engine cleaner.
As for the ECC, set the temp dials to where you have the optium temp and the blower to auto, and then leave everything alone. On cold mornings, the blower will engage as soon as the coolant temp starts to get warm (about 1/2 mile) and the blower speed will increase until the cabin gets close to the desired temp.
Same for AC, leave it switched on, always. If the interior is hot, it will switch the blower to max and then slow down as the cabin cools. If it is too cold out, the AC will not engage.
Have fun with your new car!!
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Thanks again for the reply, Klaus.
Good to know that I can switch between mid grade and premium. I'd hate to go broke feeding premium into the car. I will go with full synthetic, though. Next I'll have to go shopping for oil filter cartridges and the tool to remove the case. Any recommendations on best places to buy them both are much appreciated as the service light comes on when the car is first started so I'm assuming it's time.
Too bad that I bought the car from a dealer and have no service records. The local dealer won't give me the PO's phone number so I'll just have to learn as I go and change everything that needs changing as in the timing belt, tensioner and water pump at the next service interval.
About the only thing I've found wrong with it is the fuel pump is whining so I have a new one on the way along with the retaining ring tool. Both front hubs after that then the oil change. The passenger door release was disconnected, either popped off or wasn't reconnected the last time someone was in the panel so I took care of that yesterday. Unbelievable how easy that was. License plate lights are out so I'll check the fuse this afternoon, research how to replace them if it's good. Other than that it's a sweet ride.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Dealers cannot disclose past owner's names, but if the car was serviced there then you can ask for the service history. If the dealer bought it off an auction lot, well... How about asking for a Carfax? That usually lists dealers that serviced the car and you can call that dealer and ask.
Check the manual for timing belt intervals, the 2005 might be 120K.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Ran the Carfax per your recommendation, Klaus. Thanks for that, I never would have thought of it, otherwise.
Turns out the car has had 3 owners before me. The last one bought it in 2012 with 86k on the clock and it has 169k now. Up until 86k I can track all the dealer service it had but once the last owner bought it it vanished from the radar. I'm assuming she had an independent garage service it, so I have no idea when the timing belt was done. Rather than roll the dice, I'm just going to do the timing belt and ancillaries along with the water pump at 200k and keep track from there.
I know where the previous owner lived by doing an internet search and she's about 10 miles up the road from me. I'll take a drive out there to her last known address and see if she'll talk to me about the car. If I can get the independent garage to part with the service history I'll be in like Flint...8)
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
As far as the filter removal tool, I bought a decent one off Amazon for under 15 dollars, works like a charm each time (as recent as this weekend).
+1 on synthetic oil, cheap insurance and can be had for very low money at Wallyworld as KlausC mentioned. I was running Mobil 1 0w40 for the past few years and with this weekends change I decide to try the highly claimed Castrol 0w40 (german castrol).
Oh, and as for the filter, I personally stick with OEM and get them from FCP or TascaVolvo - make sure you get the drain plug crush washer, it does not normally come with the filter....
One last bit, and a sore subject for me - standard shade tree mechanic car ramps will not work on the car. I acquired a pair recently to make life easier and the front spoiler is too low, and I am unable to use the ramps. I will have to invest in the "longer" and less steep ramp plastic molded ones. For the time being I "get by" with my pump jack and jack stands.
Regard
Steve
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Hi Steve, thanks for replying.
I looked on Amazon and couldn't really find one that had good reviews at the price you quoted. Wound up buying the one featured in a you tube on installing the fuel pump in a plastic tank, but the ring is the same for the metal tanks. $40, and I'll probably never use it again, but good insurance.
Where do you live that you're running 0/40? Alaska? That actually sounds about right for Colorado since we see extremes between -20 and 100F throughout the year. With 7500 mile oil change intervals I won't be changing the oil more than once a year, given I work from home, so 0/40 would cover the gamut. I'm going to pick up a filter from FCP when I place the order for a set of hubs next week or the week after. I've always run Castrol...it's even marked on the oil filler cap!
I sold my old metal ramps a couple of months ago mainly because they were taking up needed room in my garage after a reorg and I'd had the same problem with the 740 air dams. I've been "getting by" with a hydraulic jack and jack stands for years with no complaints. I understand where you're coming from, though.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Yojack,
Good to hear from you. I live in Central MA and have similar temperature swings, never a complaint with 0w40 on my end and I sleep a little better knowing quality oil is used as I tend to be a spirited driver :) Also my wife's current series Jetta calls for 5w40 full synthetic from the factory - neither of our cars burn a drop in between intervals.
for the filter removal:
http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2489-86-Millimeter-Heavy-Duty/dp/B006VMXMQK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Regards
Steve
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
5W30 synthetic. Filter and flush every 7500 miles. Do not use dino oil, it is too dirty and tends to plug up the PTC and small diameter vacuum lines on turbos.
For high altitude turbos only: If you need to go from 0 - 30 mph in a hurry, do NOT floor the gas pedal. The LPT doesn't come to life before 1600 rpm, 2500 for HPT, and the open throttle with low oxygen atmosphere will cause the engine to stumble until the rev's increase. I almost learned the hard way trying to cross 4 lane US24 in Colorado Springs with a 1998 R. The turbo didn't 'kick in' until I was crossing lane 3!
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
The Volvo 5 cylinder engine likes synthetic oil and premium gas.
Personally, I'd use 5/30 full synthetic. More expensive than dino but you only need to change it every 7-8k or so instead of 5k. What's the service interval recommendation anyway? Synthetic will actually last 1OK+, but your filter probably won't.
Also use premium gas only. Regular gas will wear out your valve seats prematurely. I made the mistake of using regular gas in my 850 for years before reading here that I should be using 91 octane or higher. Bad mistake! The car now uses a quart every 2k or so. When I bought it, the 850 used about a quart every 4k. I'm convinced that if I had always used premium it would still use only a quart every 4k as the motor still runs great otherwise at 250k!
Enjoy the "new to you" car!
|
|
|
|
|
