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start inhibitor(imobilizer) on 1995 850 850 1995

posted by  volvolvr66 on  Mon Mar 28 07:38 CST 2016
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last visit: Tue Mar 4 20:11 CST 2014
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This is my first non 240 series Volvo, and something is driving me nuts.A few week ago i slid out of control downhill on ice and went through a ditch into my neighbors yard. the next day i went back and it started fine, but i found the Rack and pinion was damaged. I was able to get it home and replaced the rack. at least a couple weeks had gone by.then it hasn't started since being in the garage, but it did shortly after the accident. IS there a sensor that disables ignition when an inpact is registered as i hear some cars have? I know it started soon after, so it sems unlikely, but what if it just didn't trigger right away?I have fuel present, but no spark,even with a new ignition module/coil and tune-up with new plugs cap and rotor was not long ago.I saw on www.volvotips.com that there are two fuses labeled "electronic start inhibitor (immobilizer)" and both fuses are good.AM thinkning it could be collision prevention or alarm curcuit. I now notice a small red L.E.D that flashes when i put in the key. Any thoughts guy? has anyone else out there run into anything like this?








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    posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

    There is no crash immobilizer for the engine. Have you checked the "A" and "B" boxes for any codes? Because you have no spark, it could be cam position sensor knocked loose - that is on the rear cam driver's side.

    The red light on the dash is a security light. If you lock the car, it should blink every few seconds. Unlocking the car turns it off.

    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new



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      posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

      Thanks KlousC; the cam sensor seems likely replacing the rack was a nightmare. I wish I had a way to check the "A" and "b" boxes, but i don't have a diagnostic code reader for that car. It states on the emission sticker that it is OBDI compliant, autozone only seems to have the OBDII reader to loan.



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        posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

        Open the hood and look on the passenger side of the engine compartment. There is a large black computer box, and hanging off the front of that box are two small black boxes. Lift the lid on the left box straight up. It has a probe in the lid. Then follow the instructions 1/2 page down on this link:

        https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

        This is for the "A" box. The "B" box contains other stuff, like the instrument cluster, power seats, etc. You want to get the codes for A-2, so stick the probe in A-2 and read the codes.

        The autoparts store code reader should also work, but it will give you generic codes for the engine and emissions only.
        --
        Keeping it running is better than buying new



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          posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

          Thanks again,KlausC. the haynes manual i ordered came in and i already tried the A6 code retrieval in the book and got codes 2-1-4, and 3-1-4, which are RPM sensor absent intermittantly and camshaft position sensor signal absent. I also tried the A@ you suggested and got a 5-1-2. only place i an find the 5-1-2 is under LH3.2 system for "short term fuel mixture too rich" so your original suggestion about the camshaft sensor being faulty seem the most likely. too rich should still start, but that sensor more an issue. Now to check for loose wires and such and see how to test the sensor itself.
          one other thought though. both RPM and camshaft not reading right could be timing belt also right? would not hurt to inspect that as well.



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            posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

            It's not going to be the timing belt.

            Check the connector for the CPS, it might have been pulled when you did the steering, easy to do as it is in the same area and gets in the way. Oh, and make sure it is not touching the coil or plug wires.

            the 5-1-2 can be cleared and see if it comes back. Same with the 2-1-4.
            --
            Keeping it running is better than buying new



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              posted by  someone claiming to be on  Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [RELATED]

              Hope this is the last update. Thanks so much for all the advice KlausC. Afte gettin the error codes from A6 i deleted them and noted a 1-1-1. then i pulled the battery to make access easier and charge it up as well. I did a careful inspection of the CPS and the wires that run into the clip below the distributor cap. there was no obvious damage or corrosion on the blades in the connector. I put the fully charged battery back in after getting everything in place and tried to start again,still no fire. Then i did the A6 test again and teh same 3-1-4 was back. (no signal from the CPS). that, to me indicated a failed unit so i ordered one which should be in at least next Monday.A good electronics friend of mine said there was still a chance something in the ignition curcuit could be at fault. btu the way i see it with a brand new unti i should not have to worry about it for the next 100-200K miles. if it still fails to start my friend said he would help look for open shorts or whatever.



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