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Bought this '98 S70, non-turbo, FWD with 184K miles and no service records. Put on new timing, serpentine belts, and heater core then drove it 5,600 trouble free miles to Québec City and back to OK, including the Blue Ridge Mountains. Ran great, giving 30 - 32 mpg. CEL reporting evap emissions leak, before and after.
This is my first FWD. I admit to struggling with the timing belt and the goofy belt tensioner.
Shortly after getting back home, all of a sudden it cranks strong but just will not fire or start. It ran very well for the 5,600 miles and the timing still appears to be on. When checking the timing marks, the engine turns over easily by hand. It seems to be losing compression.
Does this sound like jumped timing? What would explain the loss of compression?
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Haven't seen this on my 850, but my VW 1.8 turbo will do this. I call it something simpler, the engine basically floods. When it happened on my VW it took me a week of wracking my brain to figure it out, finally got a tip from a pal with the same issue. These modern fuel injected computer controlled engines still get a lot of gas on cold start, a quick shutdown can cause a no restart. I always make sure my VW (and others) run to get off cold start to avoid the issue.
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Hi Bob,
Did you look at the plugs? While you're doing that you can take
some compression readings with a gauge to verify your suspicions.
See if you have spark etc.
Bill
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Did you run the engine for a short period of time and not warm it up?
850 engines would suffer from LAWN MOWER SYNDROME - you moved the car to get the mower out and then the car would not start. It would crank good,but no fire - it might even crank faster!
Do a search on this. - it happened to me.
There are several theories on this
My theory is this - when the engine first runs, the first things to get warm are the exhaust valves - they stick in their guides and you lose compression.
one technique is to crank and crank the engine, it may sputter several tines and eventually start.
If you have it towed to a dealer, they will start it then change the plugs and the oil and filter - fuel fouled plugs and fuel in the oil.
We had a family rule - You never start a white engine unless you are going to warm it up..
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Amazing! (I dropped 3 squirts of SAE 30 to cylinder 1 with a pump oil can, to test if I could improve compression. I was just cranking by wrench and I felt no improvement.) I moved onto the cranking method.
I removed the 20 amp fuel/ignition fuse and cranked for 30 seconds at 1/4 throttle. I observed the oil pressure indicator clear at about 20 seconds. I continued cranking to the prescribed 30 seconds. I rested it a few minutes, and I reinstalled the fuse. AFter that, it started readily and rather normally, Wow! What an education!
Here is my recipe for flooding my (new to me) FWD platform: The last day of my 5,600 mile summer travel I drove 900 miles, 16 hours, Knoxville to Norman, OK. The nose and headlights were covered in bugs. We came under a long steady rain, so I backed the cold car into the driveway to loosen the bugs. In the evening, I started it stone cold, rolled into the repair-bay and left it overnight. In the morning, I experienced the sudden and surprising no start, low compression cranking after driving 5.600 trouble free, no oil consumption, no loss of coplant miles.
Thanks to all, and brickboard.com. for guiding me to a solution.
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Unless the tensioner dies, the timing belt NEVER jumps. I am glad you resolved the LMS. You didn't have to remove the fuse, just push the pedal to the floor which will turn off the injectors.
The fuel return line is at the pressure regulator. You will find the FPR on the subframe behind the engine, just follow the fuel line down the back side of the engine.
To figure out if the the fuel pump relay is working, turning the key to position II will prime the pressure (listen for a short humm from under the rear seat). The relay is under the top of the fuse box, I suggest carrying a spare in the glove box - at least a thick paper clip to use as a jumper wire.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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You're ringing some bells here with this LMS hypothesis. I did jockey a cold car into the repair-bay side. It does crank like crazy. I do smell gas when I manually crank it.
I wonder if hypothetically the valves are sticking, or if the rings are rinsed clean by a rich cold mixture. I might drop some Marvel Mystery Oil into a piston, to test if I can get compression back. Honestly, it cranks like the valves are open. If I remove the oil filler cap, I expect I might notice blowby from the rings.
Fascinating! My despair is changing into hope. Thanks for throwing me a rope. I will post the outcome, tomorrow.
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Search for the post titled "Easy Fix for Lawn Mower Syndrome". LMS happened to my 1998 V70 a few months ago. The car was running just long enough to move it in the driveway and the next day it wouldnt start.
Its a 5 speed so I decided to move it towards the garage by cranking the engine with first gear engaged. After moving a few feet the engine started firing erratically. I cranked some more in 5-10 second bursts with the throttle 1/4 open. Eventually the engine started running and idled OK. Drove it a few miles and never had the problem again.
Mike
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Did you check for any trouble codes?
2 common problems, main fuel relay and cam sensor, if cam sensor, should be a code.
If you are sure timing is still on, i.e. nothing happened to cause it to jump time, then something else is the issue. I am not familiar with the tensioner as I have a 97 with the hydraulic tensioner.
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I'm new to OBDII as well, but I checked for codes and there are none reported.
I need to locate the fuel relay and feel if it is energized. With my ear to the filler nozzle and ignition at II position, I do not hear a fuel pump. But neither do I understand if it runs continuously or not, because I don't see a return line on this fuel rail. This makes me think that there may be some kind of fuel pump shutoff when the rail is up to pressure.
I think I can physically inspect the cam sensor.
But still the ease of turning it over with a ratchet drive on the crank damper is disturbing.
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