|
|
|
Hi,
when replacing the parking brake shoes, I found one of the pistons was seized up (I pulled in with a c-clamp). So, what's my options here. Should I get a pair of new rotors and a caliper? Below are from Tasca's website. I am not sure which one to pick. the first one has a great price.
I have 99 V70 base.
Thanks a lot for your input.
Paul
BRAKES / HYDRAULIC SYSTEM / REAR BRAKES / CALIPER
CALIPER C70, S70, V70; 2WD
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$74.26 $0.00 $55.08
BRAKES / HYDRAULIC SYSTEM / REAR BRAKES / CALIPER
CALIPER C70, S70, V70; 2WD; Left
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$189.73 $40.00 $137.46
BRAKES / HYDRAULIC SYSTEM / REAR BRAKES / CALIPER
CALIPER C70, S70, V70; 2WD; Right
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$189.73 $40.00 $137.46
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
I like cheap rebuilt calipers myself, as long as they are OEM.
As to rotors, if you are replacing the shoes, are the original rotors worn on the shoe portion? Is there a large lip on the outside edge? Then get new rotors.
Because you were able to push the piston back in, is the boot torn? DDid you grease it with silicone grease first? It may be salvagable, depending on the current pad use - should be the same thickness on both sides of the car. You might want to first just clean and grease the slide pins.
Dont forget to flush the brake fluid with dot4+
Klaus
--
Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Klaus,
Thanks a lot for the info.
As to the rotors, thickness seems to be ok; but rear left one seemed to be worn more than the right one. the wearing of the right rotor is not even, especially on the inner side. On the shoe portion, there seems no wearing on the right rotor. left side seems normal. (by the way, friction portion of the left shoes fell off.) If I have to get a new caliper, I tend to get new rotors too. I am going to call Tasca to find out the differences among the calipers I listed in my previous post.
It was getting dark when I finished up the parking brake job so I didn't get a careful look at the piston. I didn't grease it either; but I sprayed some WD-40. I am going to check it again this weekend. I will grease the sliding pins too.
brake fluid has been flushed with superblue regularly .
Paul
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Shop around for rear rotors, I spent a little more for the non-rust type.
Also, I found that the cable linkage inside the rotor for the shoes was rusted. I applied brake grease to make them move easily. The dealer suggested new parts. I did get new springs and tabs that hold the shoes - FCP calls it hardware. I only use OEM pads for the rear rotors, as there is little dust anyway and they never make noise. Front pads are a different story.
Klaus
--
Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Replaced parking brake shoes, rear brake pads, rotors, and right caliper (rebuilt) , and flushed the brake fluid last week. all parts were from Tasca and total cost is a little above $300. braking performance seems better now.
The parking brake needs more proper adjustment. When the parking brake is engaged, the car can still be driven backwards; but it can not move forward. How should I adjust it in this situation? Thanks.
Just had a 1300 miles round trip this past weekend (NY to Ann Arbor). Speed was mostly between 75-80 miles per hour. I got a gas mieage just above 20 miles per gallon (I got a similar one from my last trip--winter, 2010). Was this low gas mileage due to mountain driving? I usually gets about 23-24 from my daily commute.
Thanks,
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Getting the parking brakes properly adjusted is not easy. First and formost is getting the star nut on each wheel correct. I had a heck of a time with my AWD because the wheel can only be rotated forwards AND I could only get the rear wheels off the ground, not the fronts at the same time - limits travel due to the prop shaft.
When adjusting the star nut inside the 'drum', tighten it until it stops. Then loosen 2 clicks. Make sure the shoe is no longer rubbing. Do exactly the same adjustment on the other side. If you have to go 3 clicks on one, then do 3 clicks on the other.
Then tighten the brake handle.
From your description, it sounds like one side is tighter than the other. Also, give it time to 'break in' by driving with the parking brake on/rubbing for about 100 feet or so.
As to the mpg, it should not have changed. You should have easily gotten 25mpg at that speed, unless you had a headwind. Hilly doesn't count, because downhill will make up for the uphill stretches.
Klaus
--
Volvos should be saved from the junk yards, not donated.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
Thanks a lot, Klaus.
I have had a fun time removing the rear wheels recently. :-) I will adjust the parking shoes according to your description.
Not sure about the poor gas mileage. For 1,175 miles of stretch, the car used 58 gallons of gas.
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be
on
Wed Dec 31 18:00 CST 1969 [ RELATED]
|
|
The tabs were included in the new shoes ordered from Tasca; but I didn't put them on since the old ones looks perfectly fine.
|
|
|
|
|
