Posted for the benefit of the next person facing this repair.

Here are my key observations in-addition to the notes in the linked guide.

1) Getting the turbo on/off can be a nightmare.
Unbolting the Air Injection Valve will make getting the turbo loose substantially easier. DO NOT remove the rigid coolant pipe from the turbo. It makes it a bit unweidly, but getting that connection and the two copper crush rings back in place is almost impossible. Leave it be, or you'll be cursing a lot.

2) Expect the turbo oil drain pipe o-ring to be destroyed. Order a new one along with the oil pipe-to-turbo gasket.

3) Get all new manifold nuts. The stock nuts are a special oval-thread locking nut that is next to impossible to remove. DO NOT RE-USE them - you *will* regret it. Get 10 for the manifold, 4 for the turbo-to-manifold, and 3 for the turbo-to-downpipe. So order 20 to be on the safe side. These are M8x1.25

4) Expect the manifold studs to come out of the head when you remove them. Expect the stock manifold nuts to be welded to your studs and expect the nuts to destroy several of your manifold studs when you try to remove them. You'd be wise to order 10 new studs (Get full-thread studs, DO NOT USE PARTIAL THREAD STUDS!!!) and plan to replace them on re-assembly.

5) Do NOT try to remove the turbo flange studs from the manifold. These are special studs that are not designed to come out without doing serious damage to the steel of the manifold. Ask me how I learned that...

6) When reinstalling the manifold nuts and studs, do not worry too much about driving the stud into the "bottom" of the head. The odd design of the manifold nuts appears to be designed to drive the stud in to the ideal depth before torque is sufficient for the manifold nut tighten down against the manifold washer. This only works with new manifold nuts...

7) Original manifold nuts have a 13mm head. New replacements from FCP are 12mm.

8) Install the manifold studs by hand into the head BEFORE you put the head back on the engine block.

9) Clean the headbolt holes in the block before re-assembly. DO be sure to soak up any oil/water/degreaser than might be down there. If you do not, your headbolts will return a false torque reading. I wasted a whole set of bolts learning this lesson.

10) Plan to replace vacuum lines, elbows, and wiring insulation when you have the engine apart.

11) Replace/Renew your PCV system while you have the head apart. It will never be easier than now

12) while you can blow-torch old copper gasket washers and let them cool to restore them to like-new performance, the aluminum crush ring on your oil drain plug will MELT under heat. Don't bother trying to save it, have a few replacements on hand.

13) Now is also a good time to add IPD blue poly engine stabilizer bushings.

14) Getting the timing *wrong* is a LOT harder than you might think. if the engine sounds like a tractor, then problem is not the timing, it's an issue with the exhaust system.

15) Don't worry too much about keeping the Camshafts immobilized. They are marked on the ends with codes that contain I (intake) or E(exhaust) and they are NOT that hard to put back correctly.

15) Unless you've done this repair before (on a Volvo whiteblock engine!!!), expect that this repair will take several days to perform. It will likely take a couple weeks if you have to order even a couple additional gaskets, bolts, buts, studs, or OEM/Dealer parts. Have NEW Studs, Nuts, and Gaskets on hand before you start the repair.

16) expect something else (plastic or rubber) under the hood to break while you are performing this repair.

17) You *CAN* do this repair yourself. To make it less painful, you should seek the advice of someone who's done this repair before.