I was taking the spark plug cover screws off to do a tune up and one of the screws head got stripped when trying to turn with a hex wrench..I was able to take the rest of them off except one which got stripped..is this a common problem..

I need ideas on how to take this screw out..do i need to go to the dealer to take this out...i had been told that there is a special bit that you can drill the screw head with and reverse it to take it out..any one else heard of this..does this work.???please give me specifics on what drill i need to get and size..

also I spent atleast twenty mintues under the car trying to take the fuel filter connections off...no luck.had to leave the filter as is.any tricks to take this off easily..

thanks joe..

If your hex head fasteners are giving you trouble, try packing a little valve grinding compound into the head before you insert your (brand-new, of course) tool. The compound will help the wrench hold. Heloise doesn't recommend using an EasyOut (tm); they are very brittle and can snap off if not held very straight. And be sure to try a little cachet of potpourri in the glovebox.

Does it have to be potpourri or will a bag of any herb help.

From experience use a dremel and slot the screw head. They are aluminum and cut easy. You need to make a deep cut though for the same reason. A friend took their 850 to some quick lube place and they over tightened them with a hex and stripped them. Like someone else pointed out. Use a torx next time.

Thanks to everyone for the great advise on my problem..i was able to get the screw out with the right torx bit attached to a rachet and a little ed-40...i bought all kinds of hacksaw to pursue charles advise to make a deep cut and then using a flat head..glad i did not have to use the hacksaw..Dremel sounds like a good investment for me ....

I do need advise on replacing the cap and rotor on the 850 turbo..the metal hose that goes over the spark plug cover and cap and rotor ..how do i get it out of the way..is it something i can disconnect and re-connect again..

I was able to reset the service light ..thanks to great instructions on bay13..

thanks again everybody..

By metal hose are you refering to the turbo hose? If so, release the top hose clamp at the turbo end of the hose, undo the strap clamp at the rear of the head, remove the plastic cover over the throttle housing, disconect the throttle cable from its mounting,(so it does not get broken accidentally) and put to one side, pull the metal hose out of the short rubber hose at the turbo. If you are worried about the rubber hose on the other end (toward intercoller), undo that clamp and remove the metal hose. If you are talking about a small metal tube that loops around under the spark plug cover, it's mounted to the head by 1 or 2 screws, and you'll have to seperate the plastic spark plug wire holder to get it out of the way.

Your need to pull out the airbox. Its not as bad as it sounds. For me its real easy. I took mine out of the car years ago. To get the airbox out, take the top off. This involves taking off the MAS, the tubing attached to the side, and the air filter. Next pull the bottom out. Push it towards the engine and pull up. It should pop out. Thats about all I can say on it. If you have another question feel free to ask.

Save drilling the head off as a last resort!!!

Three suggestions:

Get some JB Weld (Good epoxy) and glue a nut on top of the screw head and then remove with a socket wrench. Clean the screw head real well using something like carb cleaner to make sure all the grease and oil is off the screw head to ensure a good bond. Then apply some form of lubricant around the screw head to make sure that the epoxy only bonds to the screw.

Cut a slot in the screw head with a dremel tool cut off wheel and remove with a wide screw driver.

Drill two small holes (3/32) on opposite sides of center on the head and remove with snap ring pliers.

Note: It is probably a good idea to give the screw a couple of shots of penetrating oil and letting it soak in for a couple of hours before trying any reomval technique.

Next time use a Torx bit (T-30 if I remember correctly) to remove these screws. I have found these screws quite tight in the past and now I apply a dab of antisieze before inserting them. Don't need to be a gorilla when tightening them down either.

Good luck

Good tips on the stripped head problem. I like the "glue a nut to the head" routine.

I just changed my plugs last night with a Torx 30. No problemo, fortunately. Boy those Volvo plugs were in good shape. In went the Bosch platinums at .28.

Joe

1) your spark plug problem is not common. Be careful removing these screws in the future. The tools you speak of are known as easy-outs, but I don't see them being necessary. Drill the screw out just past the head. This screw has a large head nad once it's off the cover will then be removable. Then use a vice-grip to remove the broken screw and replace it. If you drill just the head off about 3/8" will sick up once the cover is off. They are low torque screws and the vice should not slip if tightened properly.

2) The filter connections are not like a normal fluid pipe connection. Use a 17mm wrench and prise apart the quick connectors. The fuel will be under pressure and will spill, be prepared and do not use a troble light for this work.

I think it is time to invest in a service manual, they really are the key to getting a good job done, minimizing fustration and ensuring that you do the job safely.

Good luck and hope this helps,

Andrew P