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Sounds like my problem.
When the up arrow flashes on my vehicle, low rpm, and engine shutdown, I can duplicate this action by pulling the main relay (main fusebox, position 1) while the engine is running. This relay is labeled 2/32 on the schematic.
The starter motor circuit is completely isolated from the engine running circuit. Like yours, my car will crank like a badass. But, the engine won't fire up.
The mechanic is looking at the main relay 2/32 circuit on the schematic. This relay is controlled directly by pin A41 on the ECU by disconnecting it from ground, interrupting the circuit.
The ECU gets power from main fuse block 11A slot 8 feeding fuse block 11B slot 1 then through connector 24/43 pin 4 then 24/15 pin 5, then to the box where the engine computer and transmission computer are located.
Ignition keyswitch has two pins that feed 13.5v into pin A12 of the ECU when the key is in #2 or #3 position. As long as fuses 11A-8 feeding 11B-1 are ok, the ECU is supposed to sleep until the keyswitch sends 13V to pin A12 (position #2 and #3).
The main 2/32 relay coil: one side connected to 13v at all times through fuse 11B/1, but the other side of the coil is connected to ECU pin A41 which controls the relay by interrupting the ground connection through harness connector block 24/43 pin 1.
Relay 2/32 controls power to fuses 11B/2, 11B/3, and 11/B5.
Fuse 11B/2 supplies power to the ECU through pin A27, the fuel injectors, and what appears to be the idle air controller (8/5) and whatever this is (7/17).
Fuse 11B/3 supplies power to ignition coil and fuel pump
Fuse 11B/5 supplies power to AC relay, O2 sensors, Canister purge and evap valve, PAIR, Turbo control valve, and PTC resistor air preheat (MAP??)
I have a salvage ECU that acts the same way.
If you have it looked at professionally, this might save you some shop time.
I've racked up about $500 plus $300 for rental car and we still don't know what is going on. If you do find a solution, could you share it with us?
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