850 non turbo. 45,000 miles.

Check engine light came on. Car threw two codes:

448 Air pump failure

442 Air pump system failure

What are my odds that the air pump is actually kaput? How much for the pump? Common failure?

Isn't there a 50,000 mile warranty on all emission related parts?

Don't know the answer about the warranty stuff, but with those codes 99% of the time the repair is; an airpump, SAS Valve and gasket, maybe a relay, and then test the system with the scan tool to make sure the system is working.

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!

Any SWAG on the parts costs???

Dealer estimate for same job on my 97:

air pump $279

check valve $89

relay $42.07

clamps, gasket about $8.

2 hours labor

total estimate $534.

My pump set codes 442 and 446 on my 97 in July (I don't know what 446 is). Had the dealer just turn off the light. CE light stayed off until November. That time I turned if off with an OBD-II scan tool and it hasn't come back on.

In the meantime I bought a new valve, clamps, and gasket and plan to install the valve this weekend. I'm hoping the new valve will keep additional water out of the pump and all will be well. From what I've seen on this board that's unlikely but I have nothing to lose. While I'm at it I might remove the pump and take a look at it, might not. It's not like I can fix it.

Thanks for the great info!! I obviously haven't been hanging out in this forum enough to stay on top of this one. You and others have mentioned water in the pump. What is the cause of this water? where is it coming from??

Interesting you are going after the valve. I thought the pump is what dies with water seizure?? Maybe put 12V to the pump to verify life???

Since I don't live in a emissions check area and all the REAL emissions stuff is working - maybe my goal should be a way to eliminate this thing yet trick the ecu from throwing codes.

Thoughts?

Just remove the check engine light

Water (execesive condensation) gets in there due to a faulty check valve.

I think you're best in replacing the parts listed here as it's probably best if not somehow bypassed, even if there's a way to bypass it and figure out a way to fool the ECU.

You might want to look thru the archives for a more authoritative description but from what I've read:

the air pump is activated at cold startup for 2 minutes to pump air into the exhaust (emissions thing).

there is a check valve between the exhaust and the pump to keep exhaust nasties out of the pump when the pump is not running. The ECU does something to open the valve when it turns on the pump.

The valve gets dirty and sticks open, allowing moisture in the exhaust to condense and head downhill to the pump. Apparently either the water messes up the electric motor or it freezes and breaks the pump blades.

So, while the pump is throwing codes it is the valve that caused the problem in the first place. Volvo redesigned the valve so new ones don't stick - at least once fixed it shouldn't happen again.

I'm just going to replace the valve because I'm hoping the pump will hang on if I can prevent further damage. Maybe a little water gets in there every now and then and throws a code but the pump is basically ok - who knows? If it works, great. If not and I have to do the pump there's nothing lost. Since I infrequently get codes from the pump I figure it can't be completely shot. Also, since I have a tool to turn off the CE light I don't mind a little trial and error.

Eliminate the pump and trick the ECU? I suppose that's possible but way over my head. It would at the least take a few tries, and you would have to clear the fault code each time which you can't do yourself on a 96.

If you figure it out post the results.

You say you have a tool to reset the CE light. On a '96? Tell us more! No one has been able to point us to an inexpensive such tool so far.

You can decide if it's inexpensive or not. I have OBD-II software and a cable to connect my laptop to the OBD-II port. I think the company name is EASE, the specific gizmo I got is at http://www.easesim.com/personal_scantool.htm. It was $275 and can read and clear OBD codes, plus other stuff like real-time display and graphing of various engine parameters.

I got it in December and fiddled with it for a while but have not had reason to really study what it can do. It's neat to use and it's nice to be able to turn off the CE light, but it does not provide anything like the level of diagnostics available thru the diagnostic LED on pre-96's. Plus, the OBD codes are not the same or as detailed as Volvo codes. The OBD codes seem more oriented to just telling you something is broken than toward helping fix it. And finally, it only reports things that increase emissions. Forget about pulling a 414 code when the driver's side interior air temperature sensor fan is stuck.

I talked to a sales rep at the company, he said Volvo is very tight with their diagnostic info, more so than most manufacturers. So on Volvos this setup can only do the required OBD-II functions. There's tons of stuff it can do on Fords and GM cars.

Is it worth it? I dunno, time will tell. There's only 1 dealership where I live and it's pretty far away, so I blow $60 and a couple hours to get them to shut off the light.

There are other OBD/PC solutions around the web, I've gotten kind of interested since I bought this thing. I can send links if you like. There is open source code for the software, schematics for building the PC-to-OBD cable, etc.

If you have Autozone's where you are they will use an Actron scan tool to read OBD codes for you and reset the light. It didn't work when I went there but it seemed the guy didn't know how to use it. Other posters on this board have had success with the Actron thing ($150).

If anybody is around Knoxville and wants to turn off their CE light or play with the software send me email. Fortunately my car doesn't break often enough for me to get proficient with the software. It works on all European and Japanese cars and on most Chrysler products.

Oh, I heard there's a bill floating around congress to require manufacturers to make diagnostic interfaces available. Write your congressman, maybe in 2015 or so we'll be able to fix our 18 year old cars.

Terry-

I appreciate the reply. I am aware of the devices you mention. Too costly to be worthwhile for me given my experience with my car so far. Maybe when I have more than one that has OBD-II.

Not off the top of my head, but I'll ask tomorrow when I go the the parts window.