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My 855T gave me a 2-3-2 code in A2 a few days ago and I cleared it but couldn't find the reason. It came back yesterday. Another clue, I was low on gas to the point of the trip computer showing 30 miles left. I heard the in-tank pump groan loudly a couple of times yesterday before filling up and today the engine felt like it stalled for a moment on the highway driving home from work. Just a momentary loss of power.
Got home from work, two hours later it won't start. Turns over fine but won't start. I hear the fuel pump run so I hope it's ok. After it cools completely I'll open the fuel rail and see if I have pressure.
Oh, and I have to have it smog inspected for registration before the end of May.
Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Erwin
'95 855T 165,000 miles
'94 945T 153,000 miles
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Update:
The 2-3-2 was likely caused by the small hose going to the turbo. It's blown off before and resulted in the 2-3-2. It has swelled and won't snug down on the plastic line running under the distributor. Needs replacing with new.
About the no-start:
I don't think gas is getting to the fuel rail. Pressing the schrader valve at the end I heard a little gasp and no fuel. Cycling the key on and off a dozen times, each time hearing the pump run, results in a droplet of gas at the schrader. Is this normal? I've put pressure and vacuum on the FPR and no change. How best to test w/o a pressure gauge. Yes, I know raw gas will be expelled but I'll run the outlet into a gas can.
I have a new fuel filter and will replace the OLD one in the morning. Maybe running low in the tank finally pulled up enough swarf to plug the filter. I don't want to admit I've never changed it in 10 years ownership.
Erwin
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For a one time use, you might want to try using a tire pressure gauge (cheap one). The pressure after start up should be around 42psi, 44psi for a cold engine start. Of course, your engine is not running so it will be hard to get a good reading.
Replacing the filter is a good idea.
I like your reasoning regarding MPG. Buying a $30,000 car for $3,000 is the best way to save gas money and keep the 4,000 lbs out of a land fill. You should still be getting around 26-28 mpg on the highway. Keep the spark plugs clean.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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You really need a proper gauge to check the fuel pressure. Although running the fuel into a bucket will give you a volume, it will not provide a pressure reading. For that you must have a gauge. It is possible for even a weak pump to provide volume under low/no pressure - which is what you have if one end of the hose is open to the atmosphere (in a bucket).
Test gauges are not terribly expensive (I think the one I purchased last year was about 50 bucks) but you may be able to rent one from a place like Autozone etc. I think that is the only way you will be able to diagnose the problem. I don't know the exact pressure that an 850 requires, but I'd assume it is close to the 50 psi that the S40 needs.
I agree that it sounds like a fuel pressure issue.
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The vacuum line messed up your fuel trim causing the engine to run rich. I suspect you also have fouled plugs.
As to running low, the fuel pickup is at the lowest point in the tank anyway so there is no residual grung to pick up. You might have heated up the pump and it is no longer efficient. When I ran out of fuel in my 1998, I got multiple misfires.
To check the pump, run a line from the schrader valve to a bucket. Pull the fuel pump relay #103 and jumper the 15 and 87 terminals with insulated wire because the wire will get hot. Turn the key to pos II and the pump should start. Fuel flow will be very fast.
It is normal for the pressure to decrease after a few minutes after shut down, so I wouldn't worry about that too much. The priming phase when you turn the key is only to increase the pressure a enough to make the injectors work.
Put in at least 1/2 tank of fuel, you never know if your gauge is completely accurate.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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BTW,
With relay socket 103 (red fuel pump relay socket) contacts 15 and 87 jumpered, key in pos II, the pump still only runs for a few seconds when first turning the key to pos II, just like it would with the relay in. It does not run continuously. Turn the key off and back to pos II, it runs for a few seconds again and stops. No fuel flowing from the removed schrader at the fuel rail.
Complete pump has been ordered but won't be here until Tuesday.
Erwin
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Klaus,
We'll I replaced the filter and also confirmed I had a spark jumping across a plug gap.
Taking the schrader valve out there was a dribble of fuel, about a shot glass full. Connecting a hose and jumpering contacts 15 & 87 gave me nothing with the key in position II. Also confirmed the 15A pump fuse is good.
Guess the fuel pump gave up the ghost. I have about 15 gallons in the tank. Safe to replace the pump? I have the Haynes manual and will read over that now.
Groton gets almost $400 for a Volvo pump. Autozone or O'Reillys might have a Bosch unit in stock for half that.
Erwin
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It is the fumes that burn, not the liquid gasoline. An empty tank is worse than a 3/4 full tank.
If the pump on the 1995 is like the sender, there is a large white plastic holder. I used the handles from my pliers to get a good grip to unscrew it. Be careful of the wires at the pump, they are fragile and do not like to be bent very much.
An after market pump will be a little noiser than OEM, but you won't hear it when the engine is running.
I am surprised that the pump just up and quit. You initially said that it made noise when the key is in pos II. Be careful with the replacement pumps, some take a little 'work' to get into the old housing if you go that route.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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I still hear the pump run for a few seconds when the key is position II and after trying to crank for about 10 seconds. After about 15 attempts I opened the schrader valve and no fuel is present.
Looking at options now and Groton offers the complete pump assembly for the 850 and an insert which requires disassembling the old housing. If the housing cracks during this operation, well, then you're out of luck.
I'm confused by what I see on their site about the insert being a 240 pump which goes in the sending unit. Ever hear of this?
Looks like I'm going to pull the pump assembly and see if I can get it apart. If so, I'll buy the insert locally. If it looks dicey, well, shell out the big $$$ for a genuine 850 pump assembly from Groton.
That's the plan at the moment. Holiday weekend and I must have the car running by Monday. Not looking good.
Erwin
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This is Saturday, so forget FCP and the $88 pump. Call a local autoparts supply store and see what they have.
With the pump making noise, I am surprised that the pump didn't run with the relay removed and jumped. Did you check the fuses?
Pull the pump and see if it is blocked at the pickup.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Klaus,
Thanks for the help. I made the circuit of Autozone / Napa / O'Reilly's and they have an insert that won't quite fit into the plastic shell. I'll have the complete OEM Volvo part from FCP on Tuesday.
Fuse is good, jumpered relay socket didn't make the pump run any differently than with the key. Just a few seconds and stops when the key is turned to II.
Can't get pics to link directly so here are links.
This is not a bottle of coke. It's what drained out of the filter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1113.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1118.jpg
The pump insert is larger than those found at the local auto parts emporiums.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1120.jpg
Erwin
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Looks like real coke!
I am still surprised that the pump didn't try to run with the relay jumpered between 15 and 87 and the ignition on. Makes no sense because the relay causes the pump to 'prime' the pressure when you turn the key, same wires involved.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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The OEM pump assembly and new seal was waiting for me when I got home yesterday. Thanks Groton. Due to time constraints and necessity, I just bit the bullet and paid the man.
On first inspection, it's obvious that the pump motor is the smaller diameter unit being sold by auto parts stores. The original Bosch pump is 43mm in diamter, and still available through IPD. The common replacement is smaller, maybe 33mm and has a larger spacer. See pics below: (cut and paste in your browser)
Old:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1119-1.jpg
Volvo replacement:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1147.jpg
So, given more time to experiment, the generic replacement could actually work and save you several hundred dollars.
The replacement unit has an additional single ground connector which can be run to a suitable point near the tank.
Old wiring on right (red), new on left w/ added ground jumper on neg side.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1150.jpg
The new pump was in secured in the tank in 10 minutes using my special tank bung nut tool.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/eroman/850/HPIM1153.jpg
With relay 103 out, contacts 15 and 83 still jumpered, a hose on the fuel rail, and the key in position II, after a few seconds of just air, a steady and strong flow of gas ran into my catch bottle.
Relay back in, schrader valve back in and go. The car started instantly.
Then the storm hit Memphis, again.
So, even with my original pump making the appropriate whining noises, it was dead. (bad diaphram?)
This might also be the reason I was getting occasional CEL with 2-3-2, too lean?
We'll see.
Thanks for the feedback and help guys.
Erwin
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Great write up! Thanks for the follow up and I am glad it is running again.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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