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I have discovered a temperature-related stalling problem with my Volvo s70.
I've replaced the temp sensor and the radiator thermostat thing. I've replaced the ignition coil all the way to the spark plugs. I've replaced the first O2 sensor but the second still reads zero. Fuel pump relay replaced but not the fuel filter or the fuel pump.
Car starts normally every time. How far I am able to drive during warmup before it stalls changes with ambient temperature.
When the car stalls, Check engine light goes on but no fault codes. Upshift arrow lights up briefly after the stall.
After the engine dies, ODB2 is dead/locked up and my reader is useless. For two to three minutes, starter cranks but won't start. After this time delay, it starts back up and I am able to drive as long as I want to. But, if I stop, the car cools down, then I go through this process all over again.
An added bit of info is when I replaced the first O2 sensor, the stalling would happen sooner. And, if the vehicle is moving during this event... Often, the engine would die, tachometer would swing to zero. But, something would catch and it would start back up on its own.
If this was related to the fuel system, it would be more random and not happen exactly as I've described for over a year.
Should I try a different ECM or is something more interesting going on???
Would a dead O2 #2 really cause this?
Thanks guys.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNI3RZXUSaM
Bloody hell. You can find anything on Youtube nowadays.
I will check mine when daylight returns.
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The EVAP codes will not cause the engine to stall, but will turn on the check engine light.
Are your battery terminals clean? A ground problem could cause all sorts of hidden problems.
After the engine stalls, can it be immediately restarted? Or do you have to wait for a cool down period. This could be a fuel pump relay. Listen for the fuel pump whine when attempting to restart and the key is in pos II.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Somehow, the evap fault stopped two years ago. I may have to contact my dealer in California to see if they did anything to fix it.
I used to have a large stereo installed. So, the factory battery and cables were replaced around 2000. Gold plated connectors and 4ga wire to a gel-cell battery, the engine block, and car body. Normal stereo now.
I have experience fighting electrical issues on a Ford Mustang (1986) due to bad ground cables, so I agree it could be possible. Corroded or broken wiring symptoms have to manifest in a random fashion. Mine were predictable and only occurred as the engine sensed the cat converter temp or the vapor recovery system can be activated.
Before I started unplugging things and replacing all rubber elbows, the car would stall in traffic, crank without starting for about 3-4 minutes. Then, it would start back up like nothing happened.
Is it safe to assume a vac leak will stall the engine? Especially if that leak is brought about by engaging or disengaging solenoid valves on vac lines? The leak was probably evident after the solenoid and the vac tree.
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A vacuum leak will cause the engine to run rich, the plugs will then foul out and the engine fails. But, when that happens, restart is very hard to do because of the plugs.
It is possible that the fuel pump is over heating and shutting down. You really need to listen for the pump priming at start up. You do have a new fuel filter, correct?
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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I was told I had an EVAP system leak somewhere. But, that issue went away for some reason (dealer stopped mentioning it.) Code never comes up.
I remember someone mentioned the evap canister is inside the fender.
Is there a way I can temporarily disconnect this feature at the engine to see if it CHANGES my alarmingly predictable stalling problem?
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by you radiator is the purge valve. It has a vacuum line coming from the intake manifold, and one wrapping down around the fan (to the evap cannister). There is also an electrical plug there. Unplugging it will disable the evap, it will set a code, and I think it modifies something else. Therefore it might coincidentally solve the problem. I wouldn't think that it pulls enough suction to actually stall out the engine consistently.
The instrument cluster still throws me. I'm not sure what would intermittently cause that only when warm..
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If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?
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I'm going to say this one is electrical. What makes me think so is that you describe it dying and then catching again AND your speedometer going to zero. I think you may have a main relay going out on you OR you have a bad ground connection. Check the fuses & fuse panel too. You've already been through so many of the tuneup items with no improvement.
The trans lockup is also a possibility if it's an automatic - do a full flush of the trans fluid. Another idea is the idle air control motor (do these engines have one?).
Steve
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I'm curious about the trans lockup. What goes on there? And, a big problem is the car cranks but won't start after it dies for a few minutes.
The only time the car lurches is if I'm already at highway speed and the ignition system misbehaves. On side streets, it just dies.
I had a mustang with an idle speed motor. But, I don't think I have one now that I don't have a carbeurator.
The speedometer doesn't go to zero. Its the engine RPM that goes to zero. But, I'm curious... Is that a reading from the cam position sensor or the ignition system?
I can't see this being a relay or bad wiring connection. This is too predictable and repeatable. A bad electrical connection or fuel pump issue would repeat more often than once through a warm-up to cool-down cycle, wouldn't it? And, it wouldn't keep stranding me near the WalMart parkinglot every time I go out. B-)
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There are a number of things I would look into:
- stage zero tune (sounds like you're working on this one already - take it all the way)
- replace every vac and PCV line. Don't just check them - put a new line in.
- flush trans fluid completely. Could be torque converter lockup problem.
- my 1998 had issues with the wires for the fuel pump corroding/breaking right at the point where they go through from the outside to the inside of the pump assembly. You would have to remove the pump assembly to test this but basically you' looking for signs of corrosion there and testing for continuity while moving the wires around.
- the rear O2 should not ever read 0 when the car is running. There is an in-car test procedure for the rear O2 posted on this board that helped me track down a rear O2 problem.
I had a similar stalling probl 2 years ago that is completely gone now. Stock with it and I'm sure you'll get it licked.
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 215k+
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Ok, I do need to replace O2 sensor #2. I thought air sensor #1 before the cat is what controls fuel mix.
I did replace the vac lines that controls airflow into the cat converter last fall.
I will check and see what other vac line systems I have in there.
If front dam airflow to the cat converter is off until the engine/cat warms up, then it makes sense that a vac leak revealed by the solenoid valve would cause the timing of this symptom.
I hope I don't have fuel pump problems. I have 113K miles, so it would make sense I'm living on borrowed time. Once it dies and restarts, I really don't experience problems at all. So, I haven't cleaned the throttle body either.
But, did have the trans fluid flushed a few months ago.
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I am surprised you cannot get any codes from the system. The upshift arrow is caused by the lack of speed signal, so no big deal.
Yes, the rear O2 is important because it changes the fuel air mixture. You might be running too rich.
You should also check the MAF sensor near the air cleaner. It might need cleaning or replacing. That can cause the engine to stall.
The fact that if you restart and every thing runs normally is a little wierd. Check the wire connections at the engine coolant temp sensor and the MAF.
Klaus
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Always willing to listen, just not able to take direction.
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Hey Klaus.
I have not gotten any codes at all. As the stall starts, check engine light turns on, then the orange up arrow turns on. Then, those go out and the battery light comes on when the alternator and charging circuit turn off.
I got a new MAF sensor and camp position sensor a year or so ago.
I hoped the front air sensor or the temp sensor controlled fuel richness. Both have been replaced.
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