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I have a 1998 S70 with 175k miles on it, it is a 5 speed manual so there is no shift lock/shift microswitch. I drove home from work, car has been starting fine - new battery new starter 6 months ago. Parked in the driveway with wheels slightly turned (hill). Went back out to run an errand and key won't turn past position 1 - tried to wiggle the steering wheel a bit to get it unlocked and it came loose with a ping sound, I can turn the steering wheel freely but not the key. Tried putting gearshift in neutral and back out, clutch all the way in, tried locking and unlocking with remote - doors locked and unlocked fine.
I replaced the entire ignition cylinder 2 years ago, it had better not be that again.
Any ideas on how to defeat the wheel lock assuming that's what it is?
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Hi Tina,
You sure do come up with some good ones!
Does the steering wheel lock again with the key in pos0? If it does, then I suggest getting some graphite liquid spray and spray the inside of the lock. There have been many instances of the locks getting stuck and brute force, shy of breaking the key, being the only fix.
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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HI Klaus, Well I wish my car would stop coming up with these problems! I just want it to make it until mid summer at least.
No the steering won't re-lock, it turns freely now with or without the key in place. The key inserts and removes smoothly, and I sprayed some WD40 in the keyhole just to see. But the ignition cylinder is only 2 years old so it should be seized up anyway- and the WD40 didn't help. I tried turning the key as hard as I could but only hurt my fingers, I guess I could try some pliers, if I break the key the ignition needs replacing anyway... which means a new key again. I won't be doing that, so I hope it is forceable.
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It's only been a year and a couple of months since you put the new cyl in. See if the dealer will help you out, worth a shot. Just tell him the locking pin for the steering wheel broke, and now you can't turn the key to start the car.
You can 'drive it' by taking the collar off the column, and using a screwdriver to start the car. Just make sure the key is in pos I, in case the locking pin starts to move around.
Bummer, nice car.
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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It was July 2007 that I did the ignition, just looked up the dealer invoice for the part. Unfortunately it is only under warranty for 1 year so we're long out of that. Also I did the labor myself so even if I got the $140 part replaced it is the time and labor that I begrudge... anyway the parts guy didn't think it was the ignition he said looking at his parts diagram it would probably need an entire new steering column, which I definitely would not be able to do myself, so that would mean tow to a shop, get a used column and labor - about $1000 easy. The car is worth about $1000 right now (it needs an O2 sensor and has a bad/clicking CV joint, and a shushed rear bumper).
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Tina,
Oops. My mistake.
I had to replace the column because the tilt mechanism finally gave up.
You DO NOT have to replace the column. Just use "easy-outs" to remove the shear-bolts on the old ignition switch and replace with a new one. You can also drill out the old shear-bolts.
Probably not more than 30 minutes to do.
Bryan
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Thanks Bryan, I have already replaced the ignition cylinder in 2007 - it took me about 5 hours not 30 min! It took forever to drill through those security bolts, and I am not up for repeating that job only 2 years later - grr.
I am going to try "brute force" and if that doesn't work the car is up for sale as a parts car!
Anyone near San Francisco want to buy a "project"?
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I found this by accident, looks like it could be fun:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=273391805&dealer_id=64933573&car_year=2004&doors=&systime=&listingCounter=0&model=&adModel=&search_lang=en&style_flag=1&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&lastStartYear=1981&distance=25&min_price=&drive=&rdm=1263191766015&marketZipError=false&advanced=&fuel=&listingPriority=30&keywords_display=&end_year=2011&showZipError=y&make2=&certified=&engine=&adBodyStyle=&page_location=findacar::ispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&address=94043&color=&sort_type=priceDESC&adMake=MIT&max_price=&awsp=false&adClassSeries=&make=MIT&num_records=25&seller_type=p&cardist=0&LNX=ESTAFSRCHUSDTEXT&gclid=CMaGoqvPoqACFQMhDQodkylFag
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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Klaus you are funny :) If I had a spare $10k kicking around I'd go out and get another, newer S40... or maybe someday soon C30s will be old enough for me to afford. I would really like one of those!
BUT great news and I have to thank you - I tried some vice grips and turned the key hard, it started! Shut it off and now it's starting fine again. I guess something just stuck. I'm going to pick up some graphite based lock lubricant and treat all the locks. Is white grease the same thing, that's what i use on door hinges etc.
I am going to hand on to the S70 until summer, my husband is a university lecturer so he doesn't have to drive to work in summer and we won't need 2 cars so I can sell mine then, and replace it in September.
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ONLY graphite in the locks. Put some graphite in the door and trunk lock also.
See, sometimes the gorilla effort is useful. The ignition should work again for a long time.
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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I will get the graphite stuff tomorrow.
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If that works it beats trying to drill out the break-off bolts! I like that approach.
Anyone ever try using standard bolts instead of new break-offs?
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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Hi Tina,
Same thing happened to me.
You might try calling Volvo customer service for an adjustment.
You do have to replace the entire column. I've done it myself.
The hardest part is getting the column through the opening in the dash. You have to turn it on its side, hold it at an angle, put it through the opening from the back and then swing it past the brake pedal to center. I removed the pedal pad and that gave me just enough clearance to position it.
There are only two bolts that hold it in place and you can "hang" it on the upper frame member after it is in position.
Not easy, and the return springs are very sharp. But, if you can do rotors and a timing belt you can do this without damaging the dash.
Let me know if you need more detailed instructions.
Good luck.
Bryan
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If you lived a little closer to me, I would gladly give you $1K for it :)
Since your hubby has more finger strength than you do and you have a spare key, here's my suggestion:
Take off the steering wheel cover.
Put the key into pos I.
Bang the heck out of the steering column to dislodge the metal that broke. rubber mallot or bottom of palm should be enough force.
AND then try forcing the key past pos I, multiple times.
If you break the key, use a safety pin to get the key out after turning the lock back to pos 0 with a screwdriver.
What do you have to lose? You can still drive the car using a screwdriver to start the engine, just turn the ignition switch with a flat screwdriver. Make sur the key is in posI of course :)
There has to be a junk yard around San Jose that has a rear bumper cover with the correct color.
Drive axles are not that hard to swap out.
And replacing the O2 sensor is not that hard, a little PB Blaster goes a long way to helping the front O2 sensor come loose.
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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So I did state something incorrectly - the steering DOES re-lock when they key is off/out. Wierd. So key out/off = steering locked as usual. Key turned to position 1 = steering loose and free to turn, but cannot turn beyond that point.
I'll try some brute force this weekend, it's pouring rain and dark out now and I'm too busy at work to deal with this right now.
But does the steering locking when key is off indicate anything different to you?
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That's good, because the steering wheel locking pin is quite large and very hard to break.
There have been quite a few instances with people who have had key problems just like yours. They just used brute force to move the key to pos II, with lasting sucess.
Please don't use anymore WD40. It is not an oil but a solvent. Use graphite or specific lock lubricant.
Klaus
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Praying for Cynthia Amendt, heaven bound
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