I am trying to replace the o-ring on the end of the oil return line from the Turbo but I m unable to remove the pipe. I have it loose but where it is between the other two lines I don't have the clearance to remove it. I could try to pry the one line wider with bar but am fearful I might cause a problem by crimping or breaking the line. It is the line that I think runs coolant to the turbo. Any guidance would be appreciated. I viewed the picture guide and it was very helpful but I just don't have the space to get the pipe between the two lines. thanks jimbob

Mine was AWD, which is even worse for access. You do have to force the oil pipe down and out:

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/turborepairline.php

I like the trick of using a little RTV on the O ring. A dab of vasoline might also work.

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

Klaus, Thank you for the reply. I used a long screwdriver to gain some leverage above the return line and did as you said by forcing the line back and got it to wedge between the two lines but then go all the way through and I was then able to remove the tube to get to the oring. The new oring was green and the one I removed was orange and worn on the one side and a sloppy fit. I used some dielectric grease on the new ring and was able to get in back into the hole with it on the tube without pinching and now I have a nice tight fit and am sure this will eliminate the major leak. I also think I have a leak where the oil diptube fits. I see oil on the outside and oil on my hoses that run across the front. Plus oil comes out of the hole in the splash shield and drips on the garage floor after sitting. I replaced the two orings when I changed the oil in the car and removed the line for the oil cooler to the radiator and that area is dry with no leaks from there. I am just not sure where this oil that collects across the bottom is coming from. I have an extra green return line oring and I am going to pull the diptstick tube out and am hopeful it will fit. If not I can at least examine the one that is there and maybe use some sealant for a temporary fix until I get the right oring. I replaced the oring on the top of the dip stick a few months back and the orign even new that fits in the groove does not seem to really give one a snug fit in the top of the tube. Oh well maybe I can go to the hardware store and find a little fatter oring to try. Thank you again for responding to my post. If I ever have to do this job again it won't take me all day as it did this time. jim

Second time is always faster :)

The oil on the dipstick might be coming out of the top, due to crankcase pressure, and then running down. I wouldn't change the bottom O ring just yet.

Pull the dipstick out, start the engine and check for excess pressure by placing a small strip of paper over the hole. It should suck in, not out.

The light pressure turbo has a weep hole in the bottom of the intercooler (infront of the radiator) on the passenger side. This hole is to let out any excess condensed oil inside the intercooler and is by design. It will only weep a drop or two when the turbo is engaged, not at idle.
Clean off the air guide and tape a piece of oil soak up cloth to the top of the air guide to stop the leak from dribbling over to the driver's side and dripping down when you are parked.

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

Thanks again I will tape a piece of oil collecting cloth as mentioned. I started the engine and just pulled the dipstick out and it is obviously pushing pressure out the top of the dipstick tube. I then pushed the dipstick tube back in and opened the valve cover cap where I add the oil and it pushed pressure out as well. What do I do to remedy this problem? Will it hurt to drive the vehicle until I get the time to address the problem? No wonder I was pushing oil out the back where the turbo oil line return feeds into the block. My 98 S70glt has 123,000 miles registered. thanks jim

First, pull of the vacuum line that goes to the PCT nipple. PCT is on the intake pipe to the turbo. It is made of brittle plastic, but collects oil vapors and causes the sludge to solidify and block the air passage.

With a flashlight and a very small screwdriver, clean off the PCT. You can use carb cleaner if you want, it might help.

Then start collecting pennies, you will need to replace the oil separator box and vacuum lines.

If the PCT is blocked, cleaning that will buy you time until the weather gets nice and warm. Use only synthetic oil, unless you want to try cleaning out the engine using AutoRx - then get cheap 10W30 oil and a couple of Mann filters to collect all of the dirt.

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

Klaus, I removed the main center line going to the PCT nipple and the smaller line going in the side. It did have some foamy oiled sludge in the smaller nipple and the large center opening in the PCT was restricted but not completely closed. I left the PCT on the vehicle and cleaned it out with a small screwdriver and Q-tips. I ran a copper wire in the TCP and it bottomed out in the tube. I blew air through the small side opening and the large center opening and they were opened. The curved elbow that goes into the top of the TCO, I tried to run a flexible wire back into it but it wasn't having any of it so I stopped. When the vehicle was running I pulled the black tube that plugs into the flex tube before the TCP and there was vacuum in that line. I pulled the smaller line going to the TCP and nothing. Are there any other components that could be disallowing the engine to breathe to the PCT? I don't engage the turbo on a regular basis so would that have created the problem. Should I know not engage the turbo until I get this problem fixed? I reconnected the center large line to the PCT but did not reattach the oem clamp it fits very tight as it is. thanks for any insight you may have. The PCT on my vehicle is black plastic and has two vacuum lines to it and an electric plugin. jim

You done good. Even a mostly clogged PCT will slow down the vacuum draw and allow pressure to drop. The other tubes connected to the turbo work that way.

If that didn't relieve the pressure in the crankcase, then the oil separator box is next. But that is 5 hours of fun time and lots of bending over. AFTER I did mine, someone suggested putting the car on ramps to keep from bending over the engine bay :)
Beers after the operation relieved the pain,

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

Thank you Klaus, I live in Pennsylvania and I am off for the holiday and the weather is to get to the 40's today so I will be in the driveway doing step one. I really appreciate the information you have given me over the past few days and I thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. jim

Klaus, I removed the main center line going to the PCT nipple and the smaller line going in the side. It did have some foamy oiled sludge in the smaller nipple and the large center opening in the PCT was restricted but not completely closed. I left the PCT on the vehicle and cleaned it out with a small screwdriver and Q-tips. I ran a copper wire in the TCP and it bottomed out in the tube. I blew air through the small side opening and the large center opening and they were opened. The curved elbow that goes into the top of the TCO, I tried to run a flexible wire back into it but it wasn't having any of it so I stopped. When the vehicle was running I pulled the black tube that plugs into the flex tube before the TCP and there was vacuum in that line. I pulled the smaller line going to the TCP and nothing. Are there any other components that could be disallowing the engine to breathe to the PCT? I don't engage the turbo on a regular basis so would that have created the problem. Should I know not engage the turbo until I get this problem fixed? I reconnected the center large line to the PCT but did not reattach the oem clamp for now as it fits very tight as it is. thanks for any insight you may have. The PCT on my vehicle is black plastic and has two vacuum lines to it and an electric plugin.
When I first started the car and let it idle of 15 minutes I did not get the pressure out of the dipstick tube. I then took the car for ride about 10 miles and engaged the turbo a few times and then returned home. I then let the care idle for a few minutes and now I have the pressure out of the dipstick tube and out of the oil filler top. jim

It is because of the PCT that a lot of people replace a reasonably clean oil separator and still have pressure in the crank.

Well worth the easy effort of the PCT first.
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

Klaus, do you mean I should re-clean the PCT again on the vehicle or remove it from the vehicle and clean it or do you mean I should replace the PCT with a new one and see what that does? thanks jim

The PCT is now good and should be left alone. You cleaned it, and it should remain clean for another 100K miles, longer with synthetic oil.

What I also mentioned was the oil separator, located under the intake manifold. That is a long 5 hour job and needs warm air on your fingers :)

There is one other thing to try. AutoRx has been known to clean out the gunk in the oil separator box. It really does a good job on the rest of the internals. It does require and extra oil filter change after a few hundred miles and an oil change after only 1,000 miles; when the treatment ends.

But, you do have to drive the car. 200 miles a month won't work. You should realistically drive 1K miles in one month for best cleaning.

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.