gentlemen,

i am a long time player in the 240 section of the BrickBoard but, in the name of all that is idosyncratic with Volvo repair, have come to you guys for advice & infomation.

Klaus... are you there?

i need to replace the flame trap/breather box on an s70 & have a few questions:

1) how much time is the average r & r?

i am guessing 4 to 6 hours total... am i right with my estimate?

FYI, i am a highly skilled back yard mechanic & have done the breather box, among many other things, on several 240's.

still, you don't have to r & r as much stuff on the 240 when you have small hands.

2) what to do about the crimp style hose clamps?

should I just source the proper crimper?

sears will have that, yes?

is there an alternative that gives GREAT (not ghetto) results?

standard, screw down, hose clamps, for example?

3) anything i should know, special tips, or tricks?

thanks








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'Be who you are and say what you feel because those who matter don't mind and those who mind don't matter.' - Dr.Seuss

not bad.

some tricks definitely helped... even though (for about 5 minutes) i forgot about the bolt & bracket under the intake.

hahahaha.

5 hours first time DYI ...avid volvo fanatic w/ the right tool set.

that bolt on the intake... last one, to the right, on corner, beind throtle body was a major pain... the corner bolts are fun.

still tricky overall.

good thing my memory is good.

--
(http://drevilspinazzz.ytmnd.com) 'Be who you are and say what you feel because those who matter don't mind and those who mind don't matter.' - Dr.Seuss

That right had bolt cost me a 1/4 inch 10mm drive. It fell off the 6in extension and wound up behind the starter. Probably still there!!

Next time you can do it in 3 hours.
--
My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

I just did this job on an 850 (very similar to S70), so I'll give my experience. If you've worked on 240s for years (like me), you shouldn't have too much trouble with it. It did take a good while to do--probably 4 or 5 hours--but nothing was terrible. I used basic screw-type hose clamps and everything seems fine. Probably the most difficult thing is getting your arm under the intake manifold for the dipstick bolt and the support bracket bolt. I carefully removed the fuel rail from the manifold and put it back in but, as Klaus said, you don't have to. If I was doing it again, I think I'd leave it all attached.

Good luck!

Nate
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1997 850, 1979 242GT, 1990 740GL

thanxs

i APPRECIATE the timely responses, info, & feedback.




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'Be who you are and say what you feel because those who matter don't mind and those who mind don't matter.' - Dr.Seuss

Year of car and engine type do matter and change things a little. If your mileage is under 150K miles and you have always used synthetic engine oil, the breather box is probably reasonably clean.
If you have a turbo, LPT or HPT, clean the nipple where the vacuum hose attaches to the air intake just before the turbo inlet - be careful, the plastic tends to get brittle.

As far as using automotive type hose clamps with screws, I also prefer those over the crimp style. The crimp style can be loosened with a screwdriver and reused. I use a pair of cutting dykes to re-crimp them. Dont use the hardware style clamps, the open backs will cut the hoses.

Depending on the engine and year, I have always said that 5 hours of DIY "should" do it. If the manifold gasket is not torn, reuse it. The FCP gasket is worthless, I wonder what part of Bangladesh they got it from?

The injector rail does not need to be removed from the manifold! But the fuel line does need to be loosened. It looks like there are 2 fuel lines, but one of them is just a vacuum line for the FPR at the rear of the car. If you take the fuel rail off, it will cost you an extra hour for R&R, and the 2 aluminum bolts get torqued at 11 INCH pounds, just snug.

There is a bracket below the manifold to help hold it up. After removing the bolt for the dip stick, remove the upper bracket bolt. It is blind, but just feel for it. When reinstalling the manifold, the lower bracket bolt must be very loose, finger tighten all of the manifold bolts and then attach the upper bracket before tightening down the lower bracket bolt.

If you think you need more room, remove the engine fan before starting. Very easy to do, just don't forget to put it back!!
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.