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The last time I replaced pads and rotors on my '96 850 I did so because one of the rotors was obviously warped (rather than the pads being too thin).
So now - while I'm investigating an intermittent ABS light - I'm wondering just how to tell when the pads are too thin. Are their wear indicators, and - if so - what are they?
Of course, since I don't have an ABS code reader (shouldn't have skimped on the OBDII reader I got) I'll likely take the car into the shop and I'm sure they'll let me know all about what needs replacing.
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1996 was the first year of the "new" abs module. You and everyone who bought a Volvo younger than 1995 will have this failure. Victor can fix it for $140 + shipping:
http://home.earthlink.net/~vicrocha/
As for brake pads, there are no telltale groves or marks and no electric wires that can be exposed and turn on a dash light. When they get less than 1/4 inch thick, replace them. Yes, you do have to take the wheel off to get a good lock, but that isn't hard. Just torque the lugnuts to 82 lbs and you will be OK.
BTW, when the abs module gets fixed, it will turn off the abs light. There are no scanners on the US market that will turn off those lights (abs srs).
Klaus
--
I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit2002
on
Mon Aug 18 02:10 CST 2008 [ RELATED]
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A quarter inch is certainly enough thickness to last you a few thousand more miles or normal driving concidering they're probably not much more than a half inch thick to begin with when new. But there's one thing I would caution you about. They don't always wear the same and just because one wheel has a quarter inch pad thickness doesn't mean the other wheel also has a quarter inch. Could be more. Could be less. When they start getting thin always check both wheels.
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I checked all four wheels and they appear to be consistently in the .25" to .3" range. I'll have to dig in my records to see when I installed them and how many miles they've racked up to give me a guesstimate about how fast they are wearing and when they'll hit the limit of my comfort zone.
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Haynes guide says Front minimum thickness: 0.118 inch. Disc thickness new: 1.023 in. and wear limit: 0.905 in.
I had no easy way to measure so I went ahead and replaced, because they squealed, I wanted to try cross drilled, and I was in the mood to do it myself.
About the ABS, it's an item that seems like it should have been a recall (especially judging from the number of posts that were on this site a few years back) There are a number of things you can try, including a dude that re-solders them, cleaning the connections to the brakes, or using black electrical tape to cover the light. [yes that was one of the posts] But I recommend biting the bullet and replacing the module. I don't know if it's still $400 or not, but it's a good case for a once and for all solution.
--
'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's
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I was wondering how accurate Haynes was (that is half of what KlausC was saying) since they are a bit vague/general in other areas.
As it stands, they are sitting at ~0.25" (actually a bit more, tho' under .3") so I guess I better think about replacing them.
As for the ABS, since my 96 has had most of the other non-recalled recall-worthy problems (locking shifter, locked gas cap door, rear hatch coming apart, and a few others), I'm not surprised that - at 118k - the ABS problem is showing itself... fortunately, I suppose before winter sets in.
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I've repaired both of '96 my modules myself and I have a writeup on the subject over on Matthew's site. I am very experienced in soldering and it was quite easy for me - they have not failed again. A replacement module from the stealership is now around $1200.00 and chances are it will break again in a few years. Victor or Module Master can repair and test the module for under $150.00, you just won't have a speedometer for a few days while it is out of the car. It is very simple to remove if you can find an E-5 Torx socket. While most of the chain auto parts stores don't stock one they can get it in a couple of hours from the warehouse. It is Lisle part number 26770. If that doesn't work out Victor will sell you one.
As far as the brake squeal goes you need to use OEM pads. I have been doing just fine with Mintex Reds, Teflon shims, and a gob of SilGlyde brake grease on the shims. The Mintex pads are not quite as dirty as the OEMs. If you buy pads from an auto parts store it is guaranteed that they will squeal like a banshee.
...Lee
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Hey Lee,
Thanks for the pointer to your DIY fix. I'm not the best solder-slinger in the world, but my father-in-law is so we may give that a try.
The brakes *aren't* squealing yet. The pads are somewhere between 0.25 and 0.3 inches and I'm just wondering how low I can let them go (and if they do squeal when they need replacing... of if I'll just hear calipers grinding into the rotors).
Thanks again,
Scott
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I did that to an Audi over 20 years ago. I knew the pads were thin, but... When one side finally wore out there was no squeeling, just metal to metal crunch. I drove to my mechanic using the E brakes, wound up buying new rotors too.
On my wifes 2001 A4, I thought I would wait until her pads worn enough so that the warning light comes on. Modern technology! I gave up at 1mm thickness. When I pulled the caliper off, what was left of the brake pad fell to the ground! It was no longer attached to the backing plate. That could have been lots of fun for her in a panic stop!
Moral: Changing pads early is better than waiting. And if your rotors have a large lip on the outer edge, get new rotors at the same time rather than getting them ground down. Rotors and pads are almost as cheap as plugs/wires/and cap, and better for your health.
I have PBR Metal Masters on my V70 which has eliminated almost all brake dust. But, PBR doesn't like to work when it rains and requires more pedal force than OEM. Of course, PBR lasts longer than OEM, but I figure that when the pads are gone the rotors will also need to be replaced at the same time.
Klaus
--
I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)
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Klaus, there is software available for using a laptop to diagnose ABS problems on the Teves 20 ABS units. Go here for info.
http://www.ilexa.co.uk/content/category/2/2/19/
If you have a Peper rs232 interface already, then this will work with the software. I've had mine for a few years now and it works fine. You can download a trial version to see if it works on your existing interface, (if you have one).
--
Tek
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