I've done plenty of both method and if the door stop anchor point is not too badly blown out I opt for the nut and bolt method every time. To answer you question though you will need to remove the door and the door harness connector that is in the door opening by the anchor point. To get this sucker out you will need to pull the driver's knee bolster and the bolster mount on the left side to get to the harness connector. Then take a large piece of carboard and slide it in behind the door opening to protect the side of the dash while you are welding. The book will always tell you that you need to disconnect any control units in the car and while it is probably a good idea I have never seen a bodyshop yet that does it. I have seen one car in the past 25 years or so come in with a smoked control unit that could probably be attributed to welding on the frame at a bodyshop. It goes without saying that you will need to take a wire wheel and clean up the area to be welded right down to bare metal, clean it again when you are done and then seal it with some kind of decent paint. I have never stick welded (arc) one of them back together and I would think that if you were going to that you had better be pretty darn good at what you are doing as the metal is fairly thin in that area and if you over penetrate it and start blowing big molten holes in things you are going to be real sorry. I have always used a MIG (wire feed) welder to do it. As far as grounding it to the faucet, ummmm, that might be a bit on the overkill side.

Mark