|
|
Hi,
When my wife got home last night she advised that the blower motor wasn't working. I checked both fuses, and they're okay. Fan does not work on any speed, so I'm assuming that it's not the resistor pack.
Also, the Lambda Sond sensor light is now on - but I don't think that this
is related.
Does anyone know if there is a relay that could cause the blower to quit completely, or any other pointers/suggestions?
Thanks,
Armie
--
Luck favours the prepared.
|
|
-
|
|
|
You are correct, the CEL does not have any bearing on the blower motor.
But, the resistor could well be totally melted and not give you any fan what so ever. The only way to find out, is to take 2 wires from the battery and plug them into the fan motor and see if you get any movement. If the fan is stuck because there is no filter and a twig got in there, the motor will overheat and burn out.
Remember there is a difference in resistors if you have ECC or MCC.
Klaus
--
Please answer, we need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Klaus,
Long time, no speak. Good to see you're still here!
Anyhow, I'm fairly sure I've got ECC, (correct me if I'm wrong)...
The dial switch for directional flow also has an 'Auto' setting, the
fan speed is governed by a slide bar, and there are two temp setting
dials - one for driver, the other for passenger side.
BTW, is there access to the blower fan cage thru the filter port, or
do I have to do the human pretzel thing after taking out the glove box?
I'd just like to check to see if it's seized so that I don't go have to go digging where there isn't a problem.
Thanks!
Armie
--
Luck favours the prepared.
|
|
-
|
|
|
You can reach down from the engine compartment. If you have a filter, you will have to take that out first, of course:) Just remove the 2 torx screws and lift the cover under the windshield.
I forgot which way the blower turns, but it will NOT rip your fingers off!! Even at high speed.
The only hard part about replacing the blower motor is removing the knee brace, not much room to wiggle it out. Check Bay13 for easy removal techniques.
Oh, the 3 wire clips attached to the blower: the one at 11:00 is pushed straight up to get it off. If you buy just the new motor, the fan cage is pressure fitted and pulls off the shaft. Do not remove the staples, they are there as balance weights.
Have fun,
Klaus
PS. This is much better than the 240 blower motor replacement :)
--
Please answer, we need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Klaus,
Thanks for the heads up regarding the knee bolster.
Made the job much easier, (in fact you can't get the blower out
unless it's removed.) I wasn't sure what it was when I dug under there
last April. Since it's covered with
yellow SRS stickers I figured it might contain the compressed air cylinder
for the air bags, so I was careful not to disturb it. Still not sure what
it's for, but only 3 bolts and no wires so I'm not too worried. Went back in
okay too.
Long story short - got the blower running after a thorough lube. Figure
it's on it's last legs and will probably need to be replaced before 1st frost.
Of course it's a sealed unit and you can't check the brushes, etc.
Oh, and you were right - the fan blades wont take your fingers off.
Thaks again,
Armie
--
Luck favours the prepared.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks Klaus,
I'll let you know how it goes...
Armie
--
Luck favours the prepared.
|
|
-
|
|
|
you can change the brushes. just unscrew the plastic cap and the DC motor falls right off. with little help. Mine stopped working because the brushes were too short. I put some folded tin foil between the brushes and the springs and it worked again.. for some time. hehe
|
|
-
|
|
|
I'm not certain you are right Klaus, IF it is the manual system. When my resistor pack went, I had only high speed. While I was waiting for the new one to arrive, the old one was totally disconnected (out of the car even), and I still had high speed. If the high speed relay gets stuck closed (as mine did the year before) the fan will run all of the time, even with the key out of the ignition. If the high speed fuse is pulled and the relay stuck, you still have the lower speeds, assuming the resistor pack is OK. High speed fuse is #5, and lower speeds is #31.
So it seems the only common element is the switch or the motor. My best guess is that the blower motor is shot if it is the manual control system, and it's not too bad to change.
I know nothing about the ECC system, though, so if it is ECC, ignore the above.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hi Champ,
Thanks, I believe I've got ECC.
Hi speed on my 94 is fuse #4, and variable is #31.
Given that both fuses are okay, and I have neither high nor variable
speeds I'm fairly sure that either the motor is shot of the fan cage
has come off the shaft.
Armie
--
Luck favours the prepared.
|
|
|
|
|
