I have until August 18 before I leave Memphis for Roanoke VA and a new job. I need to change the T-belt on my 855T. It was last done at 70k and the car has 143,000 miles now.

I am capable of the work, have done many major engine repairs on many vehicles over the years and have a large assortment of tools. I have the Bay 13 procedure as well as the Haynes and have pulled the cover to see how tightly packed things actually are.

The local independent Volvo shop quoted me $650 for the job, could do it in a day and replace any idlers, tensioners etc that need it.

I can order the parts for half that at Groton but don't want to run into any obstacles for which I'll have to fabricate tools or run to buy things or order a discovered bad part while in the process.

What can be used to release tension on the serpentine belt tensioner? I can't fit any wrench into the opening as it's pretty tight quarters. IPD sells a $40 wrench for this but I can't see it for single use. Holding the camshaft sprockets isn't a problem so I won't need IPD's $40 holder either.

I may just turn it over to the shop as I'm in a time crunch but I sure hate to pay for a job I know I can do.

Thanks for any insight.

Erwin in Memphis... for now.

Couple of small coins taped to either side of a 1/2 inch socket drive will fit nicely into the square hole of the serpentine belt tensioner. Once rotated out of the way you can insert a nail into the tensioner at the top to keep it out of the way (hard to describe where the nail should go but you will see where once you have rotated it out of the way). Follow the instructions from Bay 13 exactly. I cut my old belt off as it's a PITA to remove. New belt went on easily. Do it slowly and it's not a problem. I did not use a cam locking tool.

It took me a few hours the first time - would be even less when I do it next time. All parts replaced were obtained from FCP Groton.

Cheers, Phil.
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'98 N/A S70 191500Klm

Sounds as if all that is holding you up is a 3/4 inch square nut into which you screw a bolt. Saw off the excess bolt, make sure the two pieces are securely tight and you have the tool for the tensioner. I just use a box end wrench to hold the "tool" and then loosen the tensioner. The tensioner also has a place for you to pin it into the open or loose position. The square end will fit into the tensioner face.

Anyway, that is what I did. Use a little masking tape to hold the tool into your box end.

Good luck,

dick

Thanks for the quick responses. I'll do it myself.

At 143,000 miles would you expect the T-belt idler bearing and Serpentine tensioner need replacement?

Erwin in Memphis... for now.

I've just replaced my third t-belt, the V70 has 300,000 km, and didn't need to replace anything. Tensioner (hydraulic) was still good, water pump wasn't leaking, and idler pulley was spinning nicely. BTW, beware of the bungee cord as a temporary tensioner! Read the posts at volvospeed.

I would replace everything within the timing belt compartment that's replaceable, re the Tensioner pulley - give it a spin by hand when it's retracted and see if it's bearing sounds noisy and or loose. If it is then replace it as well.

Phil
--
'98 N/A S70 191500Klm

Make sure you feel good about the water pump. It's in that sequence and if it siezes...

I'm not sure at what point it is considered old.

If you are in doubt about either pulley (idler or tensioner) replace it. It's cheaper than a head job!

When you put it on go in a couterclockwise motion. I had a devil of a time with the front cam going off by a notch until I figured that out.

Amen to follow Bay13 procedures.

Also I believe the timing belt change interval has been shortened considerably. You may want to check on that.

I've had two break on me. One was my bad at 140,000.(Had not been changed. I actually had it in the trunk to do that weekend!) Again at 200,000. Right at the recommended interval.

Not a fun repair, I assure you!

Good Luck.

Thanks for the tip on installing counterclockwise.

I've just ordered everything from FCP including both tensioner and idler pulleys. I'd rather have them and not need them than vice versa. I even threw in a new urethane upper engine mount bushing (at the firewall, I already have the IPD front part) as mine has ripped and I feel a little bump at the steering wheel and dash every time I accelerate from a stop. Including three-day shipping the total was $230.

I'm building up quite a savings-over-shop-rates balance with our three Bricks and I let my wife know about it.

For example, her 945T's previous owner paid over $1,000 for a full brake job by the receipts. I just did it again, pads and rotors, (Brembo/Mintex) for less than half that. When ever one of her female friends asks how we can afford three Volvos she proudly states that hubby is a wizard in the garage.

Thank you FCPGodsend and Brickboard.com

Cheers,
Erwin in Memphis... for now.

'95 855T 143,000 mi
'94 945T 113,000 mi
'88 745T M46 203,000 mi

We dig wagons.