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I have been battling a fuel problem for several days now. You are welcome to read my earlier posts; however, I think I have narrowed it down to the pump or related devices. When I turn the key, I get no gas from the pump side of the fuel filter. I checked the voltage with the key on position II and get about 12V for a second or two and then nothing. When the car is cranked, the voltage jumps all over the place.
I unplugged the pump altogether and get the same results in position II. My helper went to watch TV so I couldn't crank it. I am currently charging the battery as it is very low from cranking and will try again tomorrow.
Is the 1-2 second 12V normal, or should it stay on 12V constant? If not normal, would this more likely be the fuel pump or fuel system relay. I don't have a parts store locally that can get any of these parts, so I would rather narrow it down before ordering. Also, am I missing any other possibility such as the fuel pressure regulator? Thanks very much for the help.
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At the top of the page, fill in "fuel+relay" in the search box. On the next screen, open the drop down box and select AWD and search, again. Good reading.
The relay is numbered 103, under the fuse tray in the engine compartment. If it is green, you probably need a new one. The plastic covers do come off any you can inspect the soldered joints for cracks.
Klaus
--
1975 164 w/174,800mi (Sold) 1995 850T w/91,000mi, 1998 V70R w/129,000mi
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posted by
someone claiming to be Tapsa
on
Thu Apr 26 03:07 CST 2007 [ RELATED]
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Hi,
my fuel pump relay failed two years ago, it was able to provide power when turning the key to pos.II for couple seconds as it should but when crancing and starting it faild to keep the contacts powering the pump and the engine stalled in a couple of secods as the pregenerated fuel pressure was used. Fix was new relay for 50€ and in 15 minutes as the car was 10years and 200k km on it.
good luck, Tapsa
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Hi Junkets-
I had the same problem and it ended up being the pump. If you've already exposed the top of the pump to get your readings it only takes a few seconds to pop out and do a direct connect (point the outlet in a safe direction!).
Some poeple have had luck with the Pierburgs from FCP ($125), and a few have used the Walbro's on E-bay ($80ish), but given that this is a critical part that requires towing if it fails I went with the Bosch from eEuroparts.com ($215). You should replace the fuel pump O-Ring and fuel filter while you're at it.
Mine was sticking, possibly due to grit, but I swapped it out anyway and keep the old one on hand just in case.
It is recommended that you change the relays at the same time, however, I didn't but have the new ones "in stock" now.
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When you turn the key to position II (before you crank)
the pump normally runs for a couple of seconds to
prime the fuel system before you crank. In a correctly
operating system you will hear the pump whirr for
a few seconds and then stop. When you crank
and after starting, the fuel pump should run
constantly. So to answer your question, the 1-2 second
12V is normal.
When the pump was connected did you hear it?
If you have someone turn the key and the access
panel is open and you are right over the pump
you should hear it run. If you are getting 12V
on the pump leads I am going to guess it's the pump.
Check the archives on this one as many people
have been here before...
Check out the fuel pump relay underneath the
fuse block under the hood on the driver's side.
It should be clicking when you turn the key -
this is a much cheaper part than the fuel pump.
As you are getting 12V at position II it is most likely
the pump are you at about 160K miles?
You can get a pump rebuild kit from FCP groton
which is cheaper than the entire pump. This is
a pretty easy job as Volvo was nice enough to give
you an acess to the top of the tank - unlike some
other cars...
Good luck with it!
--
1990 240DL - 209K, 1989 Ranger 241K, Gone but not forgotten 1994 855
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Thanks for the response. What puzzled me about the 1-2 seconds, is that it did the same thing whether the pump was connected to power or not. I figured that the relay would stay closed with the pump disconnected.
I did hear it whirr with a girgle this morning and it started for a few seconds. I do not hear it whirr now. It does not stay at 12V when cranking, but again this might be because the battery is low. I know that I sound like the patient that doesn't want the bad news; but the truth is, I would happily buy the pump if I was 100% positive this would fix the issue. I guess I could jump 12V to it and see if it whirrs. Love playing with electricity and gas together!
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After charging the battery and cranking, I get 12V at the pump. I ordered a pump today.
The odd thing, at least I think it's odd, is that I still have a lot of pressure in the system. I figured the system would have little pressure on it. I removed the fuel line at the pump with the yellow tape on it and BAM! Gas everywhere. Once I did this and turned on the key, the pump girgled for a second or two. If the fuel pump is out, should I have fuel at the Schrader Valve, because I do? Maybe the fuel injector relay?
Any ideas on the best way to get off the FP Retaining Cap? I don't have access and can't buy locally the 999-5485 wrench. Also, how should I go about draining the fuel system considering finding the recommended connectors locally will be unlikely? I should be getting in the pump tomorrow.
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The cheap way to go is to buy the relay, as the two frequently
to together and if that's not it you know you are in for the
pump. I am curious - are you around 160,000 miles?
I hear your electricity and gas comment, however when
you take the pump apart you will be quite interested to
know that the pump electrical lead connections are openly
and submersed in gasoline - I guess it's okay as long as they
don't touch each other.
I had a pump once that was failing you could whack the
gas tank and it would work for a little while longer, but eventually
it's gonna die. You can also tell by the sound it makes.
A dying pump will make a weak rrrr type sound. Whereas
the new pump will go WHirrr! - a much brighter and "faster"
sound. Of course, battery voltage could affect the sound/
pump speed as well.
--
1990 240DL - 209K, 1989 Ranger 241K, Gone but not forgotten 1994 855
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I am a tad bit shy of 160k miles, but I am not sure how many since I odometer is broken (I think a little plastic gear). Being new to the whole fuel pump replacement, I just pulled the hose with the yellow tape loose and got gas everywhere. I didn't think that the system would have that much pressure with the pump dead. After I did this, I heard the pump girgle a little, but the car still doesn't start.
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