I recently experienced my first inspection with the new emissions tests in place. My emissions air blower had frozen a few months ago, so I pulled the relay causing the "check engine" light to come on. My 98 V70 has about 120,000 mi on the odometer.

I then was told it wouldn't pass inspection until the "check engine" light was off, no emissions related codes were set and it passed the tailpipe test.

I followed the instructions on Bay 13 to get the air pump out, removed the bracket, disconnected the electrical connections and then had a look at the thing.

I ground off one side of the rivets to remove the fan cover and then removed the opposite cover where the electrical connections enter. There was no water inside and only minimal corrosion on the face of the aluminum fan. However, the bushing was seized up.

The thing actually has two fans, one right behind the other. I played with it a few hours trying to split the case without destroying it. I discovered you can wedge a regular screwdriver in between the secondary fan case (located toward the motor housing from the fan that you now see with the cover off)to pry it open. Since my motor was completely seized (it would not turn even when hooked up directly to the battery), I worked around the perimeter, wedging as I went to open it up a little.

I squirted in some LPS #2 (the heavy stuff)using an extension spray wand down into the area where the bushing was and let it set a few minutes. I tilted the exhaust port downward to let any excess run out and then hooked it back up to the battery (LPS is non-conductive). This time the fan spun with a lot of noise.

I repeated the process a couple of times, allowing it to sit. When I hooked it up to the battery again, it really loosened up after running for 30 seconds. I sprayed it one more time, dumped out the excess and this time, let it run for about a minute.

Afterward, I could easily spin the rotor by hand and it exhibited very little friction. I reassembled it using long, small machine screws w/ lockwashwers, put the bracket back on, motor end case back on, etc. and tested it once more straight to the battery. No problems.

Reinstalled it in the car, reinstalled the relay and went for a drive. Check engine light went out, no more fan noise.

Passed inspection with no problems and haven't heard any fan noise since. I do hear it run sometimes while in the garage. So everything seems to be in order.

I'll have to wait to see how long it lasts, but so far this quick fix has worked.

What chaps me is that this is yet another bad design thing that is quite expensive I've had to fix! First it was the defective ABS controller I had to fix and now this thing. My steering rack started leaking fluid out both ends of the boots around 80,000 miles, that was unexpected and quite expensive. I didn't have a lift, so my mechanic got that one.

I like the car, but I'm not too impressed with Volvo's "engineering" of things. Now that they're owned by Ford, I'm even more suspicious. Don't think I'll be buying another one.
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1998 V70 T5 110Kmi; Previous car: 1985 SAAB 900T, 254kmi