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Noel,
You're welcome, after stumbling across the pink connector in a wiring diagrams manual, I've also used it numerous times for 1-man compression testing. I'm glad to share the information.
My ideal compression test is done with a hot engine (10 minutes of driving), a threaded compression tester (with a 1-way valve so it builds pressure until you manually release it), throttle wide open, and 5 full compression strokes while cranking (gauge usually stops moving after 2 or 3). Using this method, I typically get about 180 to 200 in a non-turbo engine. I also use anti-seize on my spark plugs and compression tester to safeguard the threads in the aluminum head (I've had to deal with stripped threads in other peoples Volvo 200/700/900 vehicles). I also run my compression tests in triplicate, just to make sure.
Regarding your test, there's a very good chance that your numbers will be the exact same if you re-run the test with a wide-open-throttle and as warmer engine. However, warming up the engine might help a bit, but not a whole lot since your numbers are just about perfect. From the looks of it, your rings are pretty healthy and the 2 minute warmup was sufficient. I too was thrown off by the book values that listed a 145-165 psi range. FYI, just about every Volvo B230 block that I've tested is right around 175 to 205. The only occasions where I had less compression than that were on cars that had bad head gaskets (due to being overheated).
My local Volvo dealership does the water cleaning procedure (as listed in the FAQ), and it "Steam Cleans" the cylinders and pistons pretty well. I've done it on my car, but with no noticeable results (it was a very healthy engine to start with). Putting a dime between the throttle stop and the throttle linkage (on the throttle body) will keep the engine RPMs at about 3,000 and allow you to "sip" the water from your glass at a controlled rate. You can change the RPMs by changing coins (penny, nickel) if you prefer a different speed. Try to keep the RPMs from falling below 2,000 while sipping, and it's best to do this before an oil change since you may free up some carbon deposits on the rings and push them into the crankcase. The inlet nipple for the PCV system on the intake manifold works well for attaching your vacuum hose (water sipping hose).
If you want to run a chemical cleaner (fuel addative) in your car, Volvo approves the use of Techron as the most powerful over-the-counter cleaner that's safe for your fuel injection system. I haven't done the "sipping" cleaning procedure with Techron, but I do add a couple bottles of Techron to my gas tank every 6 months or so.
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 250k miles.
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