I've had the time delay circuit in the relay die a couple of times. A different relay cured the problem.

The door switch has three wires. One wire is ground, and the other two wires are connected, respectively, to the locking and unlocking solenoids of the relay. Grounding either lead will actuate the respective side of the relay. The relay has a timer circuit in it, and it gives 12 volts to the locking motors for about one second. The locking wire is blue/red wire in the relay base, and red/white is the unlocking lead. To test the locking motors, look at the accompanying picture of the relay base.


Socket 1 is power, and it is nearest you, at the center. Socket 3 is for locking, and it is in the center of the row furthest from you. Socket 5 is in the center of the relay base. Power is from fuse 1, and make sure you have 12 volts at socket 1. Then jumper socket 1 to socket 3, and then to socket 5. If the locks work, you know you have a bad relay or switch. Socket 9 should be grounded when you hold the driver's door locking knob down. Socket 4 should be grounded when you pull up on the driver's door lock knob.

Very early 700 series used a relay in the driver's door.

Who claims to be the g-man, and why doesn't he log in and tell who he is?
--
john