Ok, to recap, my car won't idle right. It sits at 2200rpm and will not go lower. The IAC valve is fully open all the time. The throttle switch works fine and AMM is fine too.

So what I tested is the Ohms resistance on the #2 terminal ecu imput for the thermostat (this is LH 2.2). I've never done ohms tests before, so I'm not quite sure how to read it. I set the meter at 2K and all I would get would be a short burst of 1.5XX to 1.9XX the it goes back to 1 unless I take the ground off and put it back on. Bentley says I should be getting about 2000 ohms resistance at 70 degrees farenheit, which it is right now. I'm figuring something is wrong here. If the ECU thinks that the engine is really cold all the time, then it will flood the engine with gas and leave the IAC valve open all the time, right? Though I'm confused how this would explain why the car runs for the first 20 seconds or so REALLY rough at about 1Krpm then runs smooth at 2200rpm.

I'm also a wee confused on which is the ECU temp sensor. There are two temp sensor-looking things on the block, one above the other. The bottom one has brown wire going to it, and the top one has a skanky piece of deteriorated wire going to it. I know the engine harness has some bad spots, and this is one of them. When I have the cash I'm going to put a new harness in. Anyways, is the top sensor the ECU temp sensor? If it is and that skanky wire is there, could I run a new wire into the car and splice it to the blue wire right before the ecu to rule out the wiring problem?

That's enough writing and questions. I really hope someone can steer me in the right direction here, as I want the car to be running nice again as soon as possible. Thanks for any and all help as usual,

Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/23mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/