Last night I removed and replaced my rear TABs using a tool made to the homebrew bushing removal tool specifications. It took quite a long time - getting light when finished and cleaned up (with a few other little projects thrown in) - maybe 8 or 9 hours including brief bouts of despair and other breaks.
I'm writing to add my experiences to the general body of wisdom

1. Bentley doesn't mention it, but I had to mess around with the exhaust system a fair amount to acomplish the required lowering of the axel. I disconnected the middle mount and rear mounts and suspended the muffler (rear muffler for the stock non turbo) from bungy cords then lifted it back up and re-attached the rear mounts once the coils were out.
2. A bottle jack and block of wood was very useful to raise various compenents for alignment of bolt holes and such - much easier than dealing with a floor jack when all you need is a couple inches.
3. 22mm bolt head and nut for TAB through bolt
4. The old bushings came out very easily - suprisingly so. I had air tools ready but I just cranked it out with a common wrench.
5. Have several of the 1/2" nuts on hand, I screwed up the first one I used by cranking down on it at the end of the bolt's threaded section
6. The condition of my old bushings wasn't nearly as bad as the one pictured on the tool fabrication website - kind of disappointing really
7. Installing the new bushings was a bit slower: The pusher component of the tool is sized (O.D.) to not hang up as it passes through the axel-mounted ears. That's great when it is pushing on the smaller end of the old bushing during removal. But in installation mode, the pusher acts on the larger end of the tapered bushing. During installation the going got to be tougher and slower than I liked with hand tools so I switched to the impact wrench, which worked great until I had about 1/4" left to go at which point the pusher managed to work its way into the new bushing. The O.D. of the pusher was slightly less than needed to maintain contact with the metal. There may be some variation among bushing providers in the wall thickness of the metal sleeve. If I had to do it again I think I would make a second pusher for installation that was larger than the bushing O.D. at the larger end.
8. Once the bushing is most of the way in, light tapping with a hammer around the rim was mildly successful with negligable deformation, but ultimately I was able to get the pusher to seat with enoug metal to metal contact to drive the last little bit.
9. Don't get in a hurry and crank down on the tool without putting the spacers between the ears.
10. Don't make fun of those who fail to heed #9 and bend one of the ears over a bit, resulting in lots of hammering, prying, and despair before getting back on track.
11. The spacers that keep the ears apart may not fit perfectly - snug, but removable - without some minor filing or grinding. It's nice to have tools on hand to handle this.
12. Don't hammer the spacers in too securely without thinking about how you would get them out. There are ways to wedge one in that makes it a bit difficult to get at with hammer or prybar. After some filing I had no more problems with stuck spacers.
13. (more may come to mind as I catch up on my sleep

Joe