Ok - I thought it would be easier to start a new thread - I have been through the ringer trying to get my timing belt and distributor rotor to stay tight and keep running without something throwing the intermediate shaft (and therefore the rotor) out of position. I think that is set and stable now because every time I start the car it runs and now keeps running even though it idles very rough.

One thing I've been finding is that most of my problems have been because I've dropped a different engine in and may or may not have hooked everything up right. So I'm leaning towards something not being connected right... or tight enough... or not connected, etc.

In any case the car now starts and stays running... idling rough... black soot on spark plugs... white smoke coming out exhaust.

timing is currently correct, belt is new and I'm hoping sprockets and tensioner is all tight so it won't somehow slip.

I am fairly certain that all of my hoses are good or new and that there are no vacuum leaks after the AMM

Fuel pressure is 43.5 psi when the pumps run without the car running

Fuel pressure is 44.5 with FPR vacuum line disconnected (and capped off) and the car running

Fuel pressure drops to 39 psi when I reconnect the vacuum line, I couldn't check the residual pressure but I think it is ok.

Compression on cylinder 1 is 161 psi, cylinder 3 is 165 psi, and cylinder 4 is above 152 but cylinder 2 is 130 (significantly lower but I believe still within tolerances)

No codes fire on OBD ports 2 or 6 (I haven't tried anything but the first diagnostic control function 1, just learned that there are 2 more functions that will flash LED information)

So my questions are:

1. if I mixed up the wires to the different fuel injectors would the timing of their squirting of fuel be off from the timing of the spark?

2. If my valves (which never got adjusted because the engine was running before 12 or so years ago when it was removed from the car) need adjusted would this cause rich running and poor idle?

3. Machine man suggested (in my earlier thread) that the EGR might not be functioning - is there a way to test the EGR function.

4. should I swap in a spare ECU from my other 1990 240 to eliminate the ECU as the problem?

Thanks to all who have helped me so far... I am learning a great deal through all of this but mostly I'm learning how much I don't know!

Jack
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2 1990 Volvo 240s - 1 is my son's sedan the other my 245 in restoration, 1 1999 S70 is my current daily driver until I can get back into the 245!