The current 700/900 FAQ version reads like this....

"Jack up the car and remove the front wheels. Unbolt the top of one sway bar end link (the sway bar will pop upwards). Remove the link, replace either the entire rod or just the bushings, and reinstall the bottom bolt. The bushings are installed with the little cylindrical protrusions pointed toward the hole in the sway bar. Using a floor jack under the control arm, lift the arm and guide the new link end into the hole on the sway bar, then reinstall the top bolt. Don't forget the top bushings. Lower the jack. Now do the other end link. When reinstalling, use the jack under the control arm to raise the assembly so it goes into the hole in the sway bar."

A much better (and safer) way to do it is this:

Jack up the car and get both front wheels off the ground. The job is much easier if you do both sides simultaneously.
Remove the 4 15mm bolts that mount the sway bar bushings to the body of the car. (If you have road salt/rust, break the end link bushing nuts loose first). Removing the sway bar to body mounts will allow very easy movement of the end links and bushing replacement. This is especially helpful for the aluminum control arm version that has 4 rubber bushings per side. Loosen the 15mm bolt(s) that hold the bushings onto the end link on both sides. Remove the 2 15mm nuts that hold the 2 or 4 bushings in place from one side. For the aluminum control arms, you can clamp the center of the end link with a pair of vise grips to keep it from turning. It is easiest to replace the lower bushings before the upper bushings. For the aluminum control arms, be aware that the lower bushings are a much softer material. You should not use the same bushings for the bottom as for the top.

Once the new bushings are on the arms (integrated or loose washer, bushing, arm, bushing, washer, nut), tighten the 15mm nut just enough to get the link through the top of the nut. Install the 15mm bolts that mount the sway bar to the body. Finally, tighten the 15mm nuts that hold the bushings so that the distance between the washers is 42mm.


It is also helpful for replacing the radius rod cone bushings to dismount the sway bar from the body. When only one wheel is in the air, the anti-roll bar is going to fight your every move. I was able to do the radius arm cone bushings on each side (I had an "Earthquake" electric 1/2-inch drive impact with about 300ft-lbs of torque) in about 15 minutes including cleaning the arms with barely any pulling on the control arm. I did use a 2lb long-handle hammer to gently persuade the body-end of the radius arm. The only time I had to pull on anything was to get the bolt into the rear radius arm bushing. I only used maybe 30lbs of pulling force while sitting upright and had the other hand on the bolt. The only time I used a jack was to support the under-engine cradle so the suspension didn't move when I torqued the cone bushing bolt. This takes a short (not deep) 15mm metric socket unless you want to remove the tie rod end just to torque this. Now that I've done this, my tires no longer screech on my slick concrete garage floor when I put the engine into D from R!


On a related note, I did something stupid and need to replace one of the 15mm sway bar to body bolts.... Seems like a 10.1 M8 or M10 by anout 20mm long bolt. I also need to tap one of the welded-in bolts. D'oh!

Happy Bricking - I might drive this in the morning! but it's been raining; the sunroof is misaligned and the seal is not looking good.