This was my first time so a read some stuff and watched a youtube video then gave it a try.

I used a 12mm socket to remove the lower bolt and I merely loosened the upper bolt because I had read that the caliper could then be made to pivot up using the upper bolt. This worked well. (I did not mess with those 10mm allen type bolts). I tied the caliper up with string. after this I have a bit of uncertainty and hope I didn't screw up anything.

On inspection I could see that each pad had only one clip - an upper clip. Yet my renewal kit provided two per pad. So: should I have used an upper and lower clip?
Hope so cause that's what I did.

The guy at the store said not to use any anti-squeal goo because these pads don't need it (a recent innovation?). I did not add goo to the new pads.

Now the worrisome part. In order to push the piston back I used a 2 by 2 piece of soft wood to sort of lever it back. There must be a better way! Is there a tool for this?

Then I cut the string to allow the caliper to pivot back and here I had a bit of difficulty. I ended up lightly taping the pads inward so that (finally) the caliper would swing back over them. However, I could barely hear the soft rubber from the piston dragging against metal (or maybe the pads) and I was worried I might damage the rubber. I don't think I did but would this cause a fluid leak if I did?

Finally, I could not quite get the lower bolt alligned to go back in until I first loosened the upper one. Does this mean that I should have instead merely removed both of those bolts. I believe the Haynes manual says to just remove the lower one.

One more thing: do most folks extract some brake fluid from the reservoir to prevent overflow when the piston is pushed back? I did not but I can see how this might be needed. Just wondering about that.

I am going to do the other side tomorrow.