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In the last some odd months, before relocating back from corrupt hell-hole of Spokane, WA and back to St. Louis, MO, the power windows on the 1990 Volvo 240 DL li'l red wagon would quit.
So, as speak of wire harness corrosion, I treated both sides of the fuse boxe on 2.5 Volvo 240s I own. Meaning the Volvo 240 that needed it most, I forgot to treat. I treated the fuse side some months ago, yet forgot to treat the wire harness side. So, on Crapsgiving Thursday 2015, this is what I did in the parking lot of my new St. Louie, MO rental hovel.
Hope this helps. The longer we keep our Volvos, the more vigilant we'd need to be to treat these wire harness issues, like corrosion at the AMM connector, corrosion at the ground bonds, vibration loosening the connectors at the rear of the alternator and the critical alternator to engine block ground that gets loose (A good wire to replace and upsize a gauge with beefy ring terminals and some anti-corrsiove compound like DeoxIT.
1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon Fuse Box Corrosion Removal Treatment
1. Disconnect battery. Remove fuse box. Remove and reinstall wire harness connection to fuse box. The fuse box cover label and color position are compliant to a 1993 Volvo 240 in this 1990 Volvo 240 DL li'l red Wagon.
Thus, my years-long confusion when dealing with the fuse box. This 1990 Volvo 240 DL (li'l red) Wagon was in a horrible front end collision in 1999. The repair to sheet metal, the wire harness, and other bits are less than ideal.
2. Gently pull the wire harness connector off, slather in an anti-corrosive, and reinstall. (I used, again, SuperLube NLGI-2 silicon synthetic grease as it is dielectric and anti corrosive. The SuperLube label and documentation advocates using the product for this purpose. Though, ideally, one may use DexIT (www.caig.com).) The spade terminals at the end of the wire harness are a zinc-lead coated copper alloy. Not a dissimilar materials from the fuse box copper alloy terminal metal. Though over time, the dissimilar material (zinc versus copper) may cause corrosion at the electrical bonded contact between spade terminal lug on the wire and the fuse box terminal. Both the feed AND load side. Yet do not confuse the conductor positions! In some instances, the spade lug at the conductor end can, over time, not hold securely, yet you can brake the spade lug at the conductor end with even a gentle crimp. So, have extra spade terminals to replace the spade terminal that break.
3. Load side spade terminal. Apply sort of generously! Oh, and nitrile glove may help. (Always forget to wear the nitrile gloves when working on the poor owld woobly Volvos. Yet I hug the Volvos 240 almost daily. Tell them I love them, too.)
4. Another view of said treatment with the brand-old Sony DSC-S30 camera (great for industrial photography).
5. The 1990 Volvo 240 DL li'l red wagon all cleaned and greased and restored.
6. And finally, the mess after the task, yet before final clean up. The power windows now operate faster than ever up and down. Also, the headlights are brighter than ever. Battery and charging work great. Just the right rear wheel bearing is about dry, and the rust, and so on, and so on, and so on ....
I already had cleaned the corrosion away from the fuse side some months before. Yet one really needs to get at both sides.
ON the fuse side, the corrosion seems to gather on the fuse box springy terminals, whether the fuse block position is occupied with ceramic or plastic bodied (?) fuses with either copper ceramic or zinc-tin coated copper.
I have some glass envelope Bussman fuses I found at the junkyard with I guess stainless contacts. I dunno how they'll react. I put these in the 1992 240 GL sedan. Though I did this fuse box service, on both sides, on both the 1991 and 1992 sedans some time ago. I think so. I may have posted about this before. I forget right now.
Some corrosion on the fuses required filing with a rat tail and other file and some emery paper.
And I checked the power window relay and wiring at the set of three relays that secure to the center console metal frame sort of under the radio as well as connection to ground. I'd already removed the inner door panel cards to clean the door interior, clean the door drain holes, and lube everything, when I replaced the outer windows scrapers on all four door some years ago.
This service, on the back side, or wire harness side of the fuse, merely require removal and restoration of the spade terminal lug on the fuse box spade terminal.
And I find out today you can upload images larger than 640 pixels by 640 pixels to the BrickPix image loader on Brickboard.com. Your only limit is a 1024-kilobyte (1-megabyte) file size when uploading image files.
Nice to have broadband in the home. After updating the ASUS Laptop from crappy Windows 8.1 to Windows 10, we find Windows 10 is utter crap. Such utter crap. Spyware as your operating system. We call that telemetry in Windows speak.
Welp, off to see what's changed at the St. Louis-area junkyards in 10 years.
Also, on yoo-hoo-bube-tube, you can see the new Volvo S 90 series launch videos. Someone on the FWD brickboard section made mention.
So, we have:
The Volvo Cars channel on you tube.
https://www.youtube.com/user/VolvoCarsNews/videos
I guess the new video featuring the S 90 is not out.
Yet I did find some new 2016 S 90 videos on Volvo Cars of Greece here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/VolvoCarsGreece
Also, straight from the Volvo Cars AB website:
https://www.media.volvocars.com/us/en-us
Bling, bling, bling. The S 60 is now the base model, I guess at 34,xxx$ U.S. dollars.
Also, we have a brickboard.com Facebook Group I discovered a few days ago:
Brickboard.com Volvo Owner Group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/192528994099443/
Hope that helps. Enjoy. Happy Pumpkin Pie and Eggnog Holidays!
Questions and comments?
El Bombastic Bastard Quaffing teh Eggnog while Looking at LOL Cat Videos and Volvo Videos
Say NO to EVIL Spokane, WA.
Now we have fun .... :
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Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful Comedian & Comedic Actor North America in Perpetuity
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