Folks,

A variation of another way to replace the CPS on so equipped Volvo 240s with the Bosch EZK ignition (after the EZK versions with the in-distributor Hall-Effect sensor).

Placing a 60-90 pound piece of 4 x 8 plywood over the engine bay, with an end resting on the front sheet metal upper cross member, to which the grill and lighting sits under, is not an option. I'm over 6' 4" and weigh in at a sprightly 275-300 pounds myself. So, me legs dangling over may press down on the plastic works, radiator, and other sort of fragile works in there.

So, to say I'd bend some sheet metal is an understatement. I've tried this method, and I'm afraid I'd bend the upper front cross member, and as the plywood bends under my buttermilk-induced heftiness, well, I'm afraid of breaking stuff at the top of the engine. I stacked 2" x 6" planks over the strut towers, to not much relief.

So, this is how I do it, and have done it since then. In words and images ...

Be certain your exhaust hardware is well secured. The head gasket to exhaust manifold hardware is proper and the gaskets are in good condition, though I've done this for others with less than questionable exhaust hardware. Also, be certain the three sets of hardware that secures the exhaust manifold output, and gasket, to the header pipe input is also in fine fettle and properly torqued. These three nuts, even with locking hardware (lock washers) can loosen over time.

You are moving the engine forward about 1.5 to 3 inches using a scissor jack, or some method. So, you are pulling the exhaust forward, also.

You can optionally disconnect the front resonator hangers, or if a turbo exhaust, or sport turbo exhaust, you can remove the strap that secures to one of the two holes used to secure metal anchors to which the front resonator rubber round hangers secure.

A 1992 Volvo 240 GL with Bosch LH-3.1 and I dunno the EZK ignition version. 116? I get that confused.

The CPS cable was splitting, it was factory OEM with the yellow stripe near the connector end. Though the Bougicord factory OEM CPS revealed a blue foil liner where the outer sheath had failed from heat and oil.

Images courtesy of the most excellent Volvo image hosting method, available right here on your brickboard.com, through your account profile page. All secure and tidy. Even if only 640 x 640 pixels image size allowed.

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Disconnect failing CPS connector from wire harness connector. Inspect the end of the wire harness connector for dirt and corrosion. Clean if needed. Verify you do NOT lose the silicon seal on the wire harness side CPS cable connector! Use a little grease of some sort that inhibits corrosion, yet is not conductive. (Dielectric?)

(You may want to use a multimeter to check the new or replacement CPS. I forget which of the two contacts, yet should show like 180-220 ohms or so and that does not vary as you move the CPS cable or wiggle it.)



3. Disconnect 02 sensor cable. Remove the cable from the upper cable stay, let drape on the dry ground. You do not want to damage this cable. Please be mindful. You may want to remove the upper bulkhead mount 02 sensor cable stay. It's plastic and is easily damaged. It unscrews off the stud.

4. Using a scissor jack (Volvo 240 scissor jack here), as the AC lines through the bulkhead change through the years. Do not place the jack base on the panel secured to the bulkhead. Place the jack base on the unibody sheet metal bulkhead or firewall. Place cardboard under the jack base to limit damage to the finish.



Open, or raise the jack and test for secure mount. In this instance, the jack base rests on the bulkhead sheet metal. The jack head presses against the left side (North American passenger side) or header pipe runner facing away from the engine. On prior 240s, I could use a smaller scissor jack at the rear of the exhaust manifold and the unibody engine bay bulkhead sheet metal. If you have EGR, you you place the jack lower. Without EGR and on 91 and earlier, you have more room and options for placement.

Perhaps you folks have a Harbor Freight press or jack that'd do even better, yes? If so, please share. This process could use improvement, I know.

5. Open the jack. Test for placement. Got placement? Open more. The engine moves forward. You see the CPS / RPM Sensor retaining bolt.



Use a 10 mm hex. I use several extensions on a 3/8" ratchet drive. The shot is straight, no need for wobble extensions.



I loosen the retaining bolt. There was no washer under the bolt head. I'm able to to loosen and lift the bolt away using fingers. (Though I have exceptionally large hands, so this is still a bit tight for me.)

The CPS / RPM mount revealed! I use a rag and clean it up around there. The aft round rubber seal leaks a bit. Yes the PCV is clean. This engine gets Mobile 1 10W40. (This wee green 1992 240 GL beastie needs valve adjust, intake port gasket, throttle body gasket, and exhaust manifold gasket replacement, soon.)



6. Compare the old CPS sensor end with the replacement. I've found on new Bougicord CPS and used that I pulled from 740s/940s to have a different offset between the sensor and the bolt hole. The distance has increased between the sensor body and the bolt hole. So I file open the hole to shorten the distance between the sensor body and the bolt hole.

If you have problems aligning the bolt to secure the new sensor as I do each time, this can be a cause. So, always compare the old with the new. I always have to file open the this hole.

Wipe away all metal shavings.



7. The sensor body has a snug fit in the receiving sensor hole at the top of the transmission bell housing.

I'm able to twist the cable to align the the sensor body retainer screw hole with the receiving thread at the top of the bell housing. The hole has thread cut to the top. There is no chamfer to help you guide the threaded bolt end into the receiving fastener thread.

You can use your fingers to start it. I used a combo of the socket extension and one hand at the bolt to keep the CPS sensor ends aligned with the hole the bolts threads unto and secures. You mileage will vary. Better luck to you for those with smaller hands. Yes, we can use a socket with a magnetic charge, some butyl rubber, or something.

Just don't drop the bolt down the sensor hole. Avoid that at all costs!

Yet I got best results using fingers to place the bolt through the sensor end hole, placing the socket on extensions over the bolts, and fumbling until you have threaded the thing in there. Sorry, no images. I only have rudely, if loudly, stated expletives in cartoon bubbles to make it funny. (Not very funny, really.)

8. After securing the CPS sensor, guide the cable up and out. Drape the cable aside safely.

9. Close (lower) the scissor jack. As it closes, keep a hand on it. You may be able to turn the jack by hand closed. The Volvo scissor jack was in no way damaged. The jack saddle did remained unchanged. Some may be concerned the jack saddle may close under the force. I'd not encountered such a problem.

10. Reconnect the upper 02 sensor cable stay. Bring up the 02 sensor cable. Verify the 02 sensor cable remains secure in the lower 02 sensor cable stay. Use a mirror or get under the chassis so lifted and safely secure on mounts or jacks.

11. Route or dress the new CPS cable as appropriate to limit chafing, waving or gyrating of the CPS cable long run, such as air turbulence and engine motion, from the CPS sensor body to a point where you secure the cable or other incidental contact. On later 700 and 900, there is a plastic clip to secure the CPS cable to the top of the dipstick tube, and then layer into wire harness as appropriate.

(The old cable had been dressed as the factory around the lower coolant line that secures to the heater control valve connectors. It had chafed through the outer sheath where the CPS cable rubbed against the rough coolant line exterior, so, many breaches in the outer sheath I could not see before extraction.)



12. After dressing the CPS cable, reconnect the new CPS connector to the wire harness. Though before hand, check the wire harness connector for filth and corrosion, clean. Verify you did not lose the silicon seal on the wire harness side op the CPS cable connector. Maybe use a corrosion inhibiting dielectric compound or grease.

And ...

While you're at it, have you replaced the missing thermal compound between your power stage and the heat sink it sits on. Better to do this now than later. The power stage on my 1990 240 DL li'l red Wagon was so corroded that one of the two machine screws that secures the power stage IC amplifier to the aluminum heat sink broke. I have spare, and am dressing all of them up.



Hope that helps you folks on your Happy Saturday.
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Off topic:

My time in Vancouver, WA now over, and probably ain't gonna get that tech writer job here, we're taking the show in the road to MN-state.

Spokane, WA is an evil dung heap of the height of all corruption you could ever imagine across the entire USA. Tell all your friends to stay far, far, far away from this degenerate dung heap. I mean, war crimes EVIL! Stay AWAY! Don't stop in. Just pass through the region if so. Evil, Evil, Evil incarnate resides there.

Spokane, WA home of the stupid Z-Nation SyFy teevee series production. Profit for fascists.

Some of you know my feelings about St. Louis, MO. St. Louis, MO, in spite of all the problems it has, and has had in recent years, is wholly preferable.

So, maybe back to MO-state. My mother would welcome me with open arms. (Joan Crawford may be a better mother, to give you context.)

And now, some kitty and volvo images, cause we love Volvos, www.brickboard.com, kitties, and we are always grateful we have a wwww.brickboard.com.

When embedding links from image sharing sites, please be sure you can use encryption from those site (https and not merely http).











('Cept catsandvolvos.com does not encrypt. These images are hosted tumbler.com, and these domains servers will accept encryption.)



Y images? 'Cause these image bring more traffic to brickboard.com, more revenue for the brickboard. And I love Volvos and kitties!

http://catsandvolvos.com/
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