Hi,

I have been having an ongoing problem for weeks and I am low on ideas. On top of that, I need to fix it by Sunday as we're leaving for vacation.

1992 245, auto trans, LH 2.4, approx 230,000 miles on odometer

Here is the detailed problem(s):

1. At first start up the idle is slightly twitchy, after a couple minutes it gets more intense. It isn't running at a high idle, it's running at normal idle speed but with a "vroom" every couple seconds.

2. The engine constantly shakes/twitches more than normal-and again more intense as car warms up.

3. The car lacks power (at all times-after cold or hot start, doesn't matter) when you step on the gas. You can tramp completely down on the gas and it is a slow, gradual climbing of speed-especially on hills.

4. There seems to be a light metallic sound somewhere on the engine, this only happens after it has been idling for a while and the car gets up to normal operating temperature. I have tried locating sound with mechanic's stethoscope to no avail.

5. I drove it a couple miles back and forth to work after the idling problem first appeared, only once did I pull out of the drive way quickly (car had no pick up/power when I gassed it) and the car shut off on the road about 30-50 feet from our house. It wouldn't start back up, I checked things under the hood, cleaned battery posts, switched out fuel relay, unplugged AMM but still no start. After a while it finally started but didn't seem to be related to anything I did. This is the only time the shut off and no start occurred, although it has only been test driven twice since. It has sat idling in the driveway many times, sometimes for long periods without a stall out/no start.

I hadn't done any recent work to the car, except for brakes this past winter ***AND***a failed (good/used/OEM) Air Mass Meter (2nd one in about 1 1/2 years). My thermostat has been removed in airbox and hot air side blocked for years now.

All of the work/parts changed/swapped that are listed below were AFTER the above problems occurred. The problem has also NOT CHANGED whatsoever after all the swapping, changing, etc.

The only part changed below that definitely wasn't working was the in tank pump, but no change after installing a new one.

Here is what I have done:

1. In-tank Fuel Pump-NEW-(identical to OEM) verified running before installation and after installation.

2. In-tank Fuel Sender-NEW-aftermarket-had to replace as pipes rusted off/broke on old sender when I was removing hoses to check filter sock and the short rubber hose from sender to pump.

3. In-tank Fuel Filter/Sock-NEW-Bosch-old one tore when I tried to switch it to new in-tank pump.

4. Main Fuel Pump-NEW-Bosch-thought that maybe main fuel pump had been damaged and might be putting out inadequate pressure due to failed in tank pump. Not so.

5. Fuel Filter-NEW-Bosch-(filter beside main pump)-might as well change it while I'm there as it was of unknown age.

6. Fuel Pressure Regulator-NEW-Bosch-old one passed both sniff test and I pulled the hose at it's rear and it had a steady stream of fuel so it seemed okay. After tearing my hair out for a while, I had one on had so I thought "what the hell."

7. Main Fuel Relay-USED, re-soldered OEM relays-swapped around two different ones when the car wouldn't start as mentioned above.

8. Air Mass Meter-USED OEM-swapped from my running perfect 90 244, no change of course. ***one thing I noticed is the outside aluminum on the AMM getting quite hot...normal? I checked both sides of AMM connector and it's fine too. Unplugged AMM and car ran worse.

9. Spark Plug Wires, Coil Wire, Spark Plugs, Distrib. Cap & Rotor-NEW-Bougicord, Champion Copper and Bosch-most of these parts needed freshened up, wires were of unknown age.

10. Exhaust Manifold and Manifold to Header Pipe Gaskets-NEW-Elring-the manifold side gaskets were old and crumbling.

11. Flame Trap Kit-NEW OEM-replaced due to the not so old aftermarket kit split, cracked and crumbling

12. Repositioned exhaust donut as there seemed to be a leak (visible exhaust gas) at Cat. Converter and Header Pipe joint. I removed bracket and looked inside converter (at header pipe inlet) and honeycomb was fully intact. Both might be original Volvo.

13. Rear Muffler & Tailpipe-NEW Starla-old muffler rusted at inlet

14. Visibly checked Header Pipe including the inner Y-no holes

15. Swapped Ignition Amplifier-from my 90 244-no change

16. Cleaned Throttle Body, verified click of TPS, unplugged it and it ran worse

17. Cleaned IAC and applied 12v to verify valve operation

18. Checked engine ground points

19. Double checked all sensor connectors

20. Reamed intake ports after removing vac hoses

21. Sprayed cleaner around manifold hoses and gasket to check for air leaks

22. Removed and inspected hard plastic AMM elbow and accordian hose

23. Checked O2 sensor with meter, flutates from .9v and down as per 700/900 FAQ-sensor is maybe 12,000 miles old at the most

24. CPS I replaced with NEW Bougicord maybe 30,000 miles ago

25. Checked copper contact fuses and spun them

I think that should be everything.

Feel free to shoot me some ideas as I running low on them. Might go outside later to check/double check things.


Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks for reading-

Travis