Hi all,

My newly acquired 1018SR needs some work over next few months or year so that I can use as a back up car. Thank you as always.

Question 1.

I see there is evidence of rear axle seal leak. It's bleeding but not dripping any oil. I may have to replace the seal at some point. Do I need to remove the drive train shaft completely out in order to do this task? Or can I work around it? Thank you as always.

Hi Art, Nice photos. Thank you.

http://cleanflametrap.com/pumpkin.html



Question 2.

I am looking for an affordable and durable underbody rust proofing product. I love POR15 but it's very expensive... Any other recommendation? How's PL roof and flashing sealant product from Home depot?


product list from FAQ

POR-15 paint (http://www.por-15.com; great stuff, takes hours of preparation and dousing with POR's Metal-Ready [zinc sulfate, I think], makes up for lost sheetmetal when you soak fiberglass mat or cloth with it; cures to tough, pliable surface)
Corrosion-X regular (http://www.corrosionx.com; consistency of salad oil, doubles as very effective penetrating oil; doesn't evaporate)
Corrosion-X heavy duty: consistency of thin mayonnaise)
Corrosion-X MaxWax: dries to soft, pliable wax; eventually wears off when used externally, but is good substitute for POR-15 when you can't reach areas for thorough preparation

Waxoyl Underbody Protector (in the US: http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/; black, strong-smelling mix of solvent, wax, and bitumen [tar] with consistency of pancake syrup; the Brits -- MG, Rover, Triumph owners -- love this stuff; eventually wears off)
PL polyurethane roof & flashing sealant (http://www.osisealants.com; available at Home Depot; fantastic stuff for gunk-plugging leaky seams, but takes a week or more to fully cure; I doubt this stuff will wear off)
Polyurethane expanding foam (Home Depot; don't get latex-based type; in one application, this appeared to be slightly susceptible to water, a problem; nice for backing Bondo stuff where gaps and holes would result in several pounds of Bondo inches thick; tender surface, must be finished)
RTV -- life without silicone seals and adhesives would not be worth living -- GE Silicone II appears not to give off acetic acid during cure, but I don't know that for sure.