I went for an alignment today after replacing the front struts, ball joints and a tie-rod end. The car came back with the steering wheel sitting diagonal while driving, with the left side at 7-8 o'clock and 1-2 o'clock. I was questioning the numbers with the guy at the counter and he got the guy who did the alignment. I asked his assistant before they started to make sure they get the camber to sit at or near 0.3.

Anyways today while I'm questioning the RF camber being out of spec he tells me this, "I got the camber in spec and then tightened down the nut but not too much because those threads can strip easy, but then when I put the weight back on the tire it went out of spec". He claims to of tried it a couple times without success. He moved the nuts towards the engine like an 1/8 inch from the markings I had from the strut job. My strut mount has the IPD brace hooked to the rear bolt and the front two bolts are holding down a steel piece that allows an external oil filter to connect to it on the side wall next to the exhaust manifold. My last alignment on this car at the same place shows they never even touched the Camber even though the print out shows they are out of spec at 1.1 and the other at 1.0 (officially in but their printout has an * saying its out.

Here is how the numbers added up. Remember my steering wheel is crooked by a lot.


LF Camber Before 0.6
LF Camber After 0.6
RF BF 1.4
RF AF 1.2 (this is the one that gets me)
Spec 3.0 to 4.0


LF Castor Before 2.5
LF Castor After 2.5
RF BF 2.0
RF AF 2.0
Spec 3.0 to 4.0

LF Toe Before 0.15
LF Toe AF 0.13
RF Toe BF 0.19
RF Toe AF 0.11
Spec 0.06 to 0.19

To me it appears he just let the LF stay where it was or turned the steering wheel to get it in spec and proceeded to fail getting the RF into Spec with just enough toe to make it drive somewhat straight. Its like a recipe for premature tire wear.

I hope my feeling validated for wanting a refund is justified. I also feel that if I'm paying what a mechanic would make in an hour then they should spend the hour with some attempt to fix the castor by moving the ball joints too. Anyone ever request the castor being messed with. If the specs are as above with castor am I right to tell them to move the ball joints towards the engine? My Front Left Castor was 3.3 and Right 2.6 the last time I got this car's alignment done.

Oh ya, I failed the HC on my emissions test today as well. But I've got that somewhat under control for the time being.

Thanks.