Hello,

I am finally getting to dig into my first Volvo, a 75 242DL with a B20F motor. Its a very clean body, so I'm restoring it into a daily driver. The first thing to get done is sort the drivetrain out. The CIS is shot, after sitting for the past ten years. Rather than fix it, I'm taking an unusual route. I'm adapting a Honda DPFI tbi setup to a Weber downdraft manifold. The whole thing is going to be run by MegaSquirt. It won't make much power (120-130hp is all the Hondas can pull with them), but it should get 30+mpg in the city with an onboard wideband and a really good tune on the MS.

I've figured out that much, but the motor needs rebuilding as soon as the fuel system gets installed and rough tuned (I don't want to break in the new block while I'm starting from scratch on the fuel tables...). I don't know much about the B20 in terms of what work should be done while the motor is apart. This is obviously going to be a low output motor, but I'm going to be beating the holy hell out of it and I want it to last at least 100K miles. This car will be driven all over the country, and at 130hp, will be at WOT alot. I don't mind spending the money now to build an engine that will go another 30 years.

I don't need to replace the cam for power, but should I be looking into aftermarket anyway? I understand these cams can wear really badly due to only being case-hardened, do I need to address that? Obviously steel cam gear is a good idea, what about the valvetrain? Is NOS good enough or should I be looking at high performance lifers and roller rockers?

As for the head, how much porting should be done considering the restrictive intake? Any beyond basic cleanup? I want to up the C/R by shaving the head, how high can I go and still burn 87 octane?

Any other B20 weakpoints I should take care of now? I see new front covers and valve covers that promise to stop the motor from leaking, are they worth it or is new stock equipment good enough?

Thanks in advance,
-Aaron