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Rear main seal leak 200 1990

No doubt, the ugliest job of all on the 240. Dropped my automatic trans earlier this week to replace the rear main seal. I had been getting about a six inch oil stain under the car after every shutdown, right from the bellhousing grates. Old seal exploded into pieces when I pulled it out, so surely this was the problem. New seal was light colored, not gray, came from Groton. I was careful with the lip while installing and did not seat it all the way to the back so as to find a "new spot". Crank hub was polished with 600 grit and cleaned before the new seal went in. I put Permatex aviation sealer on the perimeter, tightened the seal housing bolts slightly as well as the pan bolts. Leak is very much diminished, but not gone. Top and back of engine are completely dry as is the top of the bellhousing. Spent an hour with the crankcase vent (again) this afternoon. At idle, the plastic oil cap will dance just a bit, but there is slight pressure, not vacuum that I can feel. Should there be? If I pull the intake tube hose and blow back through the flame trap I can feel air coming from the valve cover with the cap off without blowing very hard--can hear it clearly. Flame trap is clear as is the separator from what I can tell. Small vacuum line is new and clear, all hoses clear, strong vacuum signal to the flame trap. However it seems to me there should be stronger vacuum at the oil cap even at idle, no? And if that's not my problem, did I mess up the seal installation? Hard to imagine. Damaged seal housing perhaps? Any new input on a much discussed repair will be appreciated.

DS








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    Rear main seal leak 200 1990

    It sounds like you still have pressure in the crankcase that should mot be there. Make sure the PCV (flame trap) system is free of blockages. Can you easily blow through the oil separator/breather box? The oil filler cap should not bounce on the valve cover, there should be vacuum holding it on to the cover. I have heard that Volvo recommends removing the flame trap from the system? You might try this to see if it reduces the pressure. Dan








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      Rear main seal leak 200 1990

      You know I've been messing with flame traps for years, but this one had me a little baffled (whoops, no pun intended!). First, I had an early style angled trap in this one, with the new style hose to the the intake. One thing I noticed is that this leaves the vacuum port from the nipple on the manifold pointing toward the intake tract, not toward the oil separator. However it gives a better angle for the big hose. I removed that trap and went to the late, straight type, which has the vacuum port pointing down toward the separator. Now, vacuum being vacuum, it shouldn't matter, but it seems there is less bouncing at the valve cover cap than before. However, I'm with you. My opinion is that if the system is evacuating the engine, there should be enough vacuum in the valve cover to suck the cap down just slightly. I can blow through the whole thing and feel air at the valve cover. There is a very slight resistance, not much. I would think that is okay, what do you think? When I got the car the flame trap had been removed from the trap holder completely. No doubt it had become completely clogged--damaging the rear seal in the process probably.

      Thanks for your input.

      DS








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    Rear main seal leak 200 1990

    It sounds like you did a good job on the seal. I'd of use a Scothch-Brite pad instead of 600 grit but I doubt that is the problem. Change the oil and run it for a week or two and see if the leak stops. jp








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      Rear main seal leak 200 1990

      Been messing with flame traps and such too, just to be sure, though I think that's okay. A friend also suggested that the seal may be "accomodating itself" to the crank hub. He's from Jamaica, mahn, where engine parts apparently accomodate themselves rather than breaking in. Hope the two of you are right! The thought of taking that gearbox down again....shudder.

      Thanks very much,

      DS








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    Rear main seal leak 200 1990

    DS,
    You did lube the seal lips with engine oil before installing? I didn't see mention of that in your post, you may well have but if not, a dry, unlube seal can be instantly trashed on start up and that could be the problem.








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      Rear main seal leak 200 1990

      Yes, greased the crank hub and the seal lip with a thin grease prior to installing. What do you think the chances are that this is related to the housing gasket?







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