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HELLO!
I AM NEW TO THIS SITE,I LIVE IN THE U.K.AND DRIVE A 1989 VOLVO 760 GLE 2.8 V6 AUTOMATIC,WHICH IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION,BUT THE ENGINE KEEPS CUTTING OUT,NO POWER AT THE COIL LOW TENSION TERMINAL,LEAVE IT FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES AND IT WILL START AGAIN,RECENTLY GETTING WORSE,(OVER 1 HOUR A FEW DAYS AGO IN THE HOT WEATHER).
I DECIDED TO TRY AND TRACK THIS PROBLEM DOWN.
I CONNECTED A VOLT METER TO THE COIL L.T.TERMINAL,STARTED THE ENGINE IT RUNS FINE FOR VARIOUS LENGTHS OF TIME UNTIL IT CUTS OUT,NO POWER AT THE COIL L.T.
I HAVE CLEANED THE FLYWHEEL SENSOR,TESTED FOR CONTINUITY,O.K.AT THE TWO INNER WIRES TO THE SENSOR,BUT THE OUTER BRAID TYPE WIRE IS ONLY CONNECTED WITH THE TERMINAL AT THE PLUG (SHOULD IT BE CONNECTED TO EARTH i.e.THE SENSOR BODY).
I HAVE TRIED TURNING THE IGNITION SWITCH TO ON WITH THE FLYWHEEL SENSOR,AIR MASS METER AND POWER STAGE AMPLIFIER DISCONNECTED,LEAVE FOR A FEW MINUTES SAME EFFECT NO POWER AT COIL.
ANYWAY I HAVE TRACED BACK TO THE INJECTOR RELAY(464 BOTTOM CENTRE IN THE DIAGRAM)MOUNTED IN FRONT OF THE WATER EXPANSION TANK,INTERMITTENT POWER AT THE BLUE/YELLOW WIRE WHICH GOES BACK TO THE MOTRONIC/JETRONIC RELAY(135 TOP LEFT IN THE DIAGRAM)MOUNTED ON THE CENTRE CONSOL,I HAVE TAKEN THIS RELAY OUT AND CHECKED FOR DRY SOLDER JOINTS,BURNING etc.SEEMS O.K.
THERE'S POWER IN THE YELLOW/BROWN WIRE GOING INTO THE RELAY AND COMING OUT DOWN THE RED WIRE TO THE E.C.U.BUT I THINK THIS IS WHERE IT IS GOING OPEN CIRCUIT,THE RELAYS OPEN AND THEN NO POWER TO THE BLUE/YELLOW WIRE TO THE INJECTOR RELAY.
DOES ANYONE KNOW THE REST OF THE CIRCUIT FROM THE RED WIRE ENTERING THE E.C.U. IS SOME OTHER SENSOR CONNECTED TO THIS CIRCUIT GOING OPEN OR IS IT THE E.C.U.
IS IT REALLY NECESSARY FOR THE RED WIRE TO GO INTO THE E.C.U.,OR CAN I JUST EARTH THE RED WIRE TO THE BODYWORK AND COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT THROUGH THE RELAYS.
CAN ANYONE HELP.
PLEASE SEE WIRING DIAGRAM BELOW.
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Just a minor detail, but unless you have retrofitted a different engine in, you have an inline-6, not a V6. I know it's a small detail, but V6 refers to the engine design, and Volvo still has yet to make a V6, they are all inline 6s. Just FYI. Also, out of curiosity, why are your posts ALL CAPS?
I know this has nothing to do with the post itself, I just get bugged by the whole V6/inline 6 thing. I realized how much the general public doesn't realize this when I told my friend I had a 4 cyl engine and he went, "Oh, so you have a V4?"
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Manual tran 16v Wagon... Booyah!
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2 options, either no spark, or no fuel... As the engine cuts does the tacho winding down with the engine, or goes to 0 right away. If it winds down then it is a fuel problem, if it falls to 0 it is an electrical problem. As the other guy answered, if you have a fuel problem, it is the fuel relay, or some kind of grounding problem. I have a very similar problem, it is not easy. Good luck Gabriel
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THANKS FOR THE ADVICE,IT CUT STRAIGHT OUT WITH TACHO DROP TO ZERO,I CHECKED THE JETRONIC RELAY BEHIND THE CENTRE CONSOL FOOTWELL IT WORKS O.K.POWER INTO AND OUT OF, ANY WAY I TOOK HALF THE RELAYS OUT TO GET AT THIS ONE,PUSHED THEM ALL BACK,PULLED THE PLUG OF THE E.C.U.BEHIND THE PANEL ON THE RIGHT OF THE DRIVER SIDE FOOTWELL,I FOUND SOME ALUMINIUM CORROSION WHICH HAD SPREAD TO THE BOTTOM LEFT PIN WIRE BRUSHED IT OUT PUSHED THE PLUG BACK, BINGO! STARTS FIRST TIME,AND HAS BEEN RUNNING GREAT FOR TWO DAYS,I THINK IT WOULD BE WORTH CHECKING THIS PLUG/SOCKET ON YOURS AS YOU ARE HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS.
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When this happens, do you get a pulse from the ignition power amplifier on the left inner front wing? If this fails (usually due to heat troubles) it can shut you down instantly. See the 700/900 FAQ for details. It's a small trapezoid-shaped zinc device with a connector, mounted up behind the headlight about 30-40cm back from the headlamp, buried up there.
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THANKS FOR THE ADVICE BUT HOW DO I TEST FOR A PULSE FROM THE POWER AMP.
ALSO DO YOU KNOW IF THE OUTER BRAID TYPE WIRE AROUND THE TWO INNER WIRES IN THE FLYWHEEL SENSOR SHOULD CONNECT TO THE SENSOR BODY,(I HAVE A CONNECTION AT THE PIN IN THE PLUG END ALONG THE WIRE BUT DOES NOT SEEM TO BE CONNECTED AT THE OTHER END).
BYE THE WAY I SEEM TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM,I HAD HALF THE RELAYS OUT TO GET AT THE JETRONIC ONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOARD,OPENED THIS ONE UP CHECKED IT WORKS O.K.,PUT THEM ALL BACK,PULLED THE WIRING HARNESS PLUG OF THE E.C.U. FOUND A BIT OF ALUMINIUM CORROSION HAD SPREAD TO BOTTOM LEFT PIN,WIRE BRUSHED IT OUT PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, BINGO! STARTS FIRST TIME BEEN RUNNING GREAT FOR TWO DAYS (FINGERS CROSSED IT KEEPS GOING).
STILL LIKE TO KNOW ABOUT THE ABOVE TWO QUESTIONS.
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Based on the symptoms that ou describe I would look at the fuel injection relay first. You may want to check the excellent Brickboard 700 FAQ section. Good luck.
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THANKS FOR THE ADVICE,I TESTED THIS RELAY IT WORKS O.K.,THE PROBLEM SEEMED TO BE IN THE E.C.U. OR ATTACHED SENSORS.
BYE THE WAY I SEEM TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM,I THINK IT WAS SOME ALUMINIUM CORROSION IN THE E.C.U. PLUG SOCKET IT HAD SPREAD TO THE BOTTOM LEFT PIN,I WIRE BRUSHED IT OUT PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND THE CARS BEEN RUNNING GREAT FOR TWO DAYS,(I HOPE IT KEEPS GOING).
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