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I have a pair of HIF carbs and know that the over-run valve can be removed and the hole soldered up.
Any suggestions how to do this? I'm OK with soldering plumbing, but this type of application is obviously much different.
Torch or soldering gun? (afraid of applying too much heat and warping plates)
Electrical or 50/50 lead/tin solder?
Blob it on with a flat surface underneath, or just keep building up the solder and filing or sanding off?
Any way to ensure that the solder doesn't loosen up and get swallowed or leak?
Any ideas are appreciated, Thanks
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rhys
on
Sat Jun 25 05:22 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Hi Al;
I am giving my trade secrets away, but here goes. I patch those holes all the time. I use 24 gauge sheet copper, cut a square, lop off the corners, and then use 50/50 solder and acid flux with a Bernzomatic torch and a steady hand to solder the plates on the downstream side. I use enough solder that it wets out around the hole in plate when viewed from the front side. They will never come off.
Rhys
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Rhys;
Thats basically what I've done too...after that stupid valve on one went away - literaly (I think it was blown off by a backfire, and then "consumed"...couldn't get the idle below 2k after that!?!?)...except I didn't use acid core solder...as a electronics guy, where its a big no-no to get the acid on circuits, I keep only rosin core solder around, and use that on everything.
Epoxy solutions don't thrill me (but I'll file the interesting fact that JBW is used in intakes away for future ref.)...but once soldered, you can pretty much forget about it...because (once properly soldered) if the carb gets hot enough to melt solder, that would be the least of you problems!
Cheers
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Took apart my sump pump not realizing it was an oil filled motor.
Not a big deal, got it back together with the manufacturer recommended "transformer oil" and no leaks etc.
My question, what is transformer oil?
Is the old oil considered hazzardous?
Would the old oil be recycled like engine oil?
Can you give me any ideas "electronics guy"?
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T
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AS;
...are we talking about a B18 oilfilled sumppump or the one in your cellar here?
...transformer cooling oil, is just mineral oil...recycle as used engine oil...
Cheers
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The easiest way (not the cheapest) is to call Joe Curto or Rhys Kent and get
some throttle plates that don't have the valve.
Joe suggested to me that I just solder the valves shut, which is what I did.
Next time I ordered stuff I ordered the right plates without valves (they are
cheaper, btw)
They will be a lot harder to solder with that big hole- have you got a small
piece of copper foil or something you could solder over it? A penny is too
big!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Or go find solid plates in a junked earlier car with HS-6 carbs. Rhys will undoubtedly correct me if I get it wrong but I believe the difference in diameter on the HIF44 was upstream of the piston, not at the throttle.
The throttle plates very rarely die unless someone tries to remove them by brute force. Those little stinker screws are another matter, entirely!
Two-part epoxy will work fine too if you don't like the thought of heating the plates. On a perfectly clean part it will not come off (especially if rounded over in a glob and shaped smooth with a file later). JB weld is successfully used to reshape intake ports very often.
--
Mike!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rhys
on
Sat Jun 25 17:48 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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The earlier HS6 used a different angle in the closed position from the HIF, which was steeper. Why SU did this I do not know, but the HS plate in the HIF, or a decel valve HS will not close enough (it fits perfectly for bore as you mention) for the idle stop screws to work. One of the strange things I have found out about rebuilding 50 pairs a year....for many years.....
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It's like fishin', here;)
LOL, even the true experts get an idea or two (175 CD tip)!
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Mike!
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I hope I remembered correctly with that tip. Counting on Rheys to confirm.
Maybe there will be a new use for old Strombergs aside from paperweights.
Always had a hard time with the Stromberg carbs.
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T
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I've never had a real problem with the (older) CD carbs. My biggest issue was having to mess with the needle through the dome and not twist up the diaphram (ditto on the diaphram when rebuilding).
The various enrichment circuits are sometimes annoying too.
I just like the greater simplicity of the SU.
--
Mike!
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The only Strombergs I delt with were on my '70 which I think were CD 175, that sounds familiar (the 175 part I'm sure of, can't remember about the CD). The carbs looked good but I think were a victim of faulty compensating valves and I never could justify putting money into them with so many good SU carbs around.
Can't agree more about the simplicity of SU. If a dope like me can get those to run smooth they must be pretty simple.
The HIFs haven't required much adjustment over the years and have always worked well through seasonal temperature changes -10F to 100F.
Wish I could say the same about the HS that replaced the Strombergs. The HS has been good, but I found more tempermental to temperature changes, and the sticking jet when the choke is applied still drives me nuts.
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rhys
on
Tue Jun 28 15:54 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I would be pleased to fix those sticking choke levers....
You are right about the Strombergs - 175CD which of course means 1 3/4 inch bore and "constant depression" the same principle the SU works on. The only other Stromberg size was the 150, which is quite rare.
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Thanks Rhys,
I promise to not reveal any of your trade secrets (earlier post)!
Do have a question though, do you leave the sheet copper on the plate or just use it to form a "pool" solder and then grind it off? It sounds like you leave it.
Also re: Mike's post; I swaped in throttle plates from Stromberg 175 on a different set of HIFs about 10 years and 70,000 miles ago and haven't experienced negative effects. Actually that set has been the most reliable that I've ever owned. I don't remember having a problem with the stop screws.
Junk yards in Connecticut? No way. There are some old Volvos around, but they are mostly in peoples garages or back yards. There is not a lot of networking amongst pre 70's Volvos around here that I am aware of. I don't think you would even find many 1980's cars of any brand in most junk yards here.
--
'60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T
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posted by
someone claiming to be Rhys
on
Sun Jun 26 05:43 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I am going to try the Stromberg plates in the HIF. They may share the same angle. Great idea.
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