I need to raise my car up to do some work and I would like to be able to put blocks under my front wheels while the car is raised as I think that it adds to the stabiltiy of a jacked up car. I was wondering if I should use spring compressors to keep the springs from stretching out or should I just jack up the car under the whole wheel assembly? Can I put on a spring compressor with the wheel still on?
I know you all know what I am talking about; you can jack up the car a foot but the wheel will only be a couple inches off the ground...

Thanks

The best way is wit a floor jack and not Stock toy that CAr manufacturers give you.

Jack under the Ham of the rear axles for the rears so the Springs stay loaded.
For the front, Put the Floor Jack under Strut area, jack there and that will keep the Spring loaded
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

A broken shock may let the wheel fall too far when you jack it off the
ground. Not sure if this is a problem on 240s but it certainly is on older
models.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

DON'T whatever you do rely on a jack. If you haven't got ramps or any other equipment then what I do sometimes is jack the car as high as it will go, then put a stack of stout wooden baulks, like sawn off railway sleepers, under the wheel and lower the wheel on to it so that virtually all the weight is on the suspension. Leave the jack in place as an added precaution.
You could use 6" concrete building blocks, but NOT house bricks.
A trolley jack directly under the suspension arm is the quickest method, because you don't have any wasted travel compressing/decompressingt the spring. But again, don't rely on the jack, put wooden blocks under the wheel to take most of the weight.

But as Erling says, the best method is the proper way with ramps.

I would recommend using the jackstands or ramps as support for the car instead of trying to support the car with both blocks and jackstands. When on ramps the suspension is holding the load of the car, and has a nice safe place to sit, on jackstands the frame (unibody) of the car is held securely with the jackstands and wont move around.

If you need more clearance a much easier option than spring compressors would be to remove the wheels, this opens up a lot of space (remember to break loose the lugs before lifting them off the ground).

Summary, jack it up higher and support it with good jackstands, avoid mixing jackstands and wheel supports. You have to remove the wheel to fit a spring compressor in there already, so it's not worth the effort unless doing suspension work.
--
Zack Silver 83' 242Ti (225k)

Don't tell me you are planning on working under it without jack stands? I think the easiest way to achieve what you want is to buy an inexpensive set of ramps. Back when I was a kid everybody and their brother had a set or two lying around. Heck I have been a proffesional mechanic for 20+ years and I am willing to bet that there is at least one set in my garage at home. Buy some ramps and use them, if you need to go higher then get a jack and good stands that will accomodate you.

Mark

I use ramps from time to time, and was tired of them slipping on the concrete garage floor when driving on/off. A simple solution was to cut up old seat belts and tie them to the end of the ramp. No more slipping.





Erling.
--
My 240 Page

Thank you for this elegant idea.

I own a pair of Rhino ramps - sold everywhere in the US. They're made of plastic, ABS I'd say, with rubber feet to keep them from scooting. They can be toted together in one hand, so I gave away my old, heavy steel ramps gladly. Another advantage the Rhino ramps have for me is low angle to clear the front air dam; the steel units were made for older cars I guess.

The work everywhere at home, but one day I threw them in the trunk, off to do a maintenance of my mother-in-law's 944, an hour's drive South. The asphalt driveway there (at my brother-in-law's) was slick with years of oil leaks, so try as I might, the Rhinos wouldn't stay put.

It never crossed my mind to attach something that could be pinned by the tires a few inches in advance of the ramp edge.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

What a good idea! My ramps tend to slip on the driveway and I often have to start over. My ramps are different but maybe I can do something similar. I wonder if those "Rhino ramps" slip less. Do you know?

My Rhino ramps slip every time I try to use them, and they are new with no wear on the rubber pads. It depends on how smooth the surface of the floor is.

I have to jack up the whole front end and let it down onto the ramps. At least I have the convenience of driving off the ramps when I'm done. I'm going to do something to make them work better though.
--
Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto; 81 242 Turbo, intercooled, M46, 122k.

Rhino ramps have a rubber block on the bottom to somewhat hold it in place when driving up. Usually works, though I'm prolly going to have to improvise something else by the end of the year. Mine's is getting pretty worn down.

-- Kane
--

While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any information and advice provided was at no cost to you.

I found a couple of spare tires (on rims) butted against the ramps helps to prevent slippage.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans