1986 240. No power to coil and fuel pump not operating when key is turned on. I can feel relay(new)working and fender fuse good. Can see no corroded wires in distributor from hall sensor. Any suggestions on how to test or track down? I found nothing relevant in recent archives for 240. I hate to scrap the old brick with 300+K but it could be the last stand? Any suggestions for saving this old workhorse are appreciated.
Thanks
Reid

This is early for me, but here goes—

"1986 240. No power to coil and fuel pump not operating when key is turned on. Can feel relay(new)workingand fender fuse good."

1 - Explain "no power to coil". If that's true, there is no point looking at any fuel related items, because ignition failure always blocks the FI system.

2 - Also, "fuel pump not operating when key is turned on" is NORMAL for '86 with LH 2.2 FI. The Key On "pump buzz" didn't come till LH 2.4 in '89.

3 - And "Can feel relay(new)working..." is also NORMAL. There are 2 relays in the white case. The one you feel is the "system" relay. It just powers the AMM and ECU. The FUEL relay won't "pick" until the ECU lets it—and that requires the ECU getting an OK signal from the Ignition CU.

Lets have some more detail on #1

--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Thanks for the replies. The things I do know: timing belt is not broken, using a test light their is no power getting to the coil with key on. The fuel pumps definately( I went through this when I replaced relay) buzzed before but nothing now. I'm assuming this is an electrical/ignition failure issue. Something not triggering something. I just don't know where to begin to test. Again, any advise appreciated.

If your test light is showing no power to the ignition coil terminal 15, trace backward toward the ignition switch. It is a blue wire. I believe the first connector you encounter will be a two-position connector adjacent to the coil, and because of the exposure to the elements near the hood edge, is most likely the culprit.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Have you checked the ECU......hidden under the side panel on passenger side ? If the 25 AMP fuse, on fender, has any corrosion/ gunk on it it will fail even if the fuse is still good. The plastic holder/ connector gets rather corroded inside. I replaced mine with a fuse holder that has a cap to it. Bought it at the local parts store, about two bucks.

My 89 up and quit in the middle of nowhere. Nothing responed when I turned the ignition. Pulled 25 Amp, cleaned off the crud, on the fuse and in the holder, replaced, and you'd thought I'd bought a new Brick. Again if thats not the culprit.....check the ECU.

Enjoy
--
84, 242GLTi, 167K, 4+OD, in rehab; 89, 245 DL, 300K, M 47, daily driver; 93, 245, auto, 167K ; and other toys.

The problem here is that the '89 ECU is a real bad one, but the 86 has a 544 that has a much much lower incidence of failure. Anything is possible but...
Is your timing belt busted?

I am not very familiar with the modren Volvos (240 and up) but it sounds
like a fairly simple electrical problem which may be kind of hard to find
but cheap to fix. I'd start by examining the wiring and in the meanwhile
maybe some of the other guys will check in with more relevant advice.
They're pretty good about that.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Two questions. Have you removed the cable that goes into the distributor? (yes?)
Have you removed the cable going into the big I think ECU on the right forward fender? If you did, and you have not changed out your engine wiring harness, that is your problem. See David Barton's web page http://personal.linkline.com/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html on engine harnesses.

The other problem is no fuel pump. This is a different problem. You should check to see if you have two dead fuel pumps and if you do then get a couple from pick and pull and check to see that they run. To get the unit from in-the-tank, you might need to make a tool from a welding shop using a socket and a "C" shaped piece of cold rolled steel welded to it to open the tank lug (for a wagon). This is fairly well documented in this website and under the special tools section too.