I have nearly completed my resto of my 68 firebird 400. I now have an issue with the alternator not charging. while running the ammeter in the car reads 5-10 amp drawl. I "full-fielded" the alternator and it charges properly. I replaced the voltage regulator (external type) and replaced all of the connections under the hood that have to do with the charging system...i took out all the crimp connections and soldered all and then checked for connectivity with a multimeter. I next inspected the ignition switch and the plug behind it. the switch itself seems to work, the car starts and accessories run. I have electricity coming to the constant-hot terminal labled "Bat". I placed a jumper wire to from the "Bat" terminal on the plug to the terminal labled "ign" and no charge occured. I am stumped as to what is going on. I cannot think of what to do next. to reiterate: problem sorces checked and eliminated...1) alternator 2) voltage regulator 3) underhood wiring 4) ignition switch.

Any thoughts???....I know its not a volvo, but i am sure that most of the understanding regarding these systems is univeral plus after a $10k restoration this little issue is really pissing me off. please help

Are you sure you really have a problem? Usually when there is an Ampmeter in the circuit it is placed so it only measures the charging current into the battery. It doesn't measure the total from the alternator which includes not only the current to recharge the battery but all the current for the rest of the car. (Ignition, light etc.)

Once the battery has recharged from running the starter, the "recharge" current to the battery, which the meter is measuring, should approach zero. Conversly, if the Ampmeter continues to show currents above 10 amps after the battery should have been recharged a problem exists shch as a shorted cell in the battery or a requlator gone "wild' and trying to overcharge the battery.

If you are in doubt, measure the voltage on the batttery while the car is running. A charged battery being "floated" by the voltage regulator should measure between 13.8 to 14.2 volts or so. On the low end if hot and on the high end when cold. A fully charged battery shoud measure 12.6 volts after setting for several hours with the engine not running.
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'96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 204HP cams, 126K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD.

thisparticular ammeter is positioned to measure all drains on the system. while cranking and before startine a massive drain is read..(big engine take a big starter) and upon start the meter should read a moderate charge...say 20 amps. once running is should return to the 1-5 amp range. momentarily the needle will drop to around -10 amps when the power windows are used (old motors aka inefficent), but will return to the normal 1-5 amp range as soon as they are not in use. this has always been the case, untill now. when running the meter reads -5amps and when the windows are used it reads -15 amps. There is clearly a problem here. I am running an MSD box which requires more juice than the original points set up had and i don't think the car will run an hour like this without totally draining the battery, especially if the headlights are on eand the windows are used. any other thoughts?

Early GM with separate Regulator: Voltage from the Alternator goes directly to Battery.

The ignition is what energizes the Fender Regulator. Sounds like you got it all there. Maybe something dopey like grounding the case of the Regulator?
If you just Resto'd the car maybe you didn't want to scuff up the nice new paint on the Fender for a ground. Runs a wire from Neg on battery to the case of the external Regulator. Just a thought.
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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

Yeah...I tryed that too...no dice...this regulator is actually grounded through a terminal on its plug according to my wireing diagram. i think this car is haunted at least as far as electical stuff goes.....as did the first owner who let it go for a song. I am thinking that there may be an issue with the wiring between the firewall and the switch...i dunno. I really don't wanna take the dash out of this old girl...it looks like a royal pain. thanks for the idea though. lemme know if u have any others.