Why are you so sure it's a faulty injector? The cold start injectors rarely fail and even when they do the engine will cough as it tries to start and eventually will start. If you have verified that you're getting 12 volts at the cold start injector during cold cranking, but are getting no fuel, then I would be more suspicious that there is no fuel supply. There are a number of faults that can cause this. Two of the most common are a failed AMM or failed fuel pump relay.

For your LH fuel system, there's a quick and easy test to verify that the AMM (MAF) is okay by trying to start the engine in "limp home" mode. This is a very common no-start situation, especially with the onset of summer heat. With the ignition off, disconnect the plug on the AMM and try restarting. If it will start and run (albeit poorly) then that's highly likely your problem. If that's the case, check the FAQ/archives for tips on why that might have happened.

Check some of the obvious things. Make sure your timing belt isn't broken. Open the oil filler cap and watch for rocker movement during cranking. And don't forget to check the fuel pump fuses and the 25 amp blade style fuse under the hood on the left fender.

To address a faulty fuel pump relay, you can get all formal about this and start tracing power and fuel delivery or bypassing the relay with jumpers at the fuse panel, but I'd simply attempt a little pre-emptive first aid on the fuel pump relay by re-flowing the solder joints. As I recall for your LH 2.2 system you'll find it in the passenger footwell behind the glovebox on the firewall -it will be the one with some heavy gauge red wires running into it). Carefully pry open the relay case. Re-flow the main solder points on the circuit board (a 25-45 watt soldering gun is best for this). Use only electronic solder if you need to add a little. Clean off any flux residue. Put it back together, re-install and try starting. I'll go out on a limb and say the odds are 3::1 that's your problem. Overheating a minimally rated relay is behind this. This relay fix can last many years depending on the condition of the fuel pumps, which affects how much current they draw and how hot the relay gets. Many Bricksters pack a used relay in the car for roadside repair. If this turns out to be the problem then check the operation of your in-tank pre-pump as a potential source of the problem (see FAQ/archives).

If those things don't check out or I'm off on a tangent then get back to us and we'll point you toward more fault areas.
--
Dave -own 940's, prev 740/240/140/120's & quasi-expert only on a good day