An earlier post (with the nice pics) has whet my appetite for my upcoming timing belt & tensioner/water pump/seal replacement job on the '89 240. (Before daughter goes to college in August). I purchased a crankshaft tool (I think this tool is used to hold the crankshaft stationary while the pulley bolt is removed) but I've got several other "tooling" questions:

1) Do I need to buy a special tool to "push in" the new cam seal? intermediate seal? crankshaft seal?

2) Do all three shafts (cam, intermediate, crankshaft) have threads on the inner portion of the shaft? What thread bolt do I need in order to use a special tool to "push" new seals into place?

3) Do I need a tool to "pick out" the old seals? (cam, intermediate, crankshaft)??

If someone has a list of things that I can buy from Home Depot that will allow me to fashion homemade seal tools, I would greatly appreciate having it. I absolutely cannot stand to get right in the middle of a job and not have the right tools.
Thanks,
Cabbie2169

As far as a removal tool goes, I have had good luck with a box cutter knife fitted with a special blade available from Stanley (Home Depot has them). It has a hooked curve at the tip designed to cut string/twine, etc. I suppose. Works like a charm and little chance of scraping the surfaces.
--
Bob K

Don't know if you saw this picture or not in the other thread, but this is what the dealer tools look like.


--
Proud owner of "The World's Most Famous Volvo Radio!"

If the water pump is out of the way, how does this simplify the cam, intermediate, and crank shaft seal replacements?? In other words...will I still need to press in the crank and intermediate but not the cam seal??

You are refering to Art benstein's post? He mentions the size for the cam (and intermediate - they are the same)shaft seal homemade installation tool.

"This was a 1-3/4" pipe plug"
--
Happy Motoring! 86' 244 "Grey Mare" '87 245 "Grasshopper"

For the cam and intermediate seal, I use a large socket and the bolt in the cam or intermediate shaft. Sorry but I'm at work and don't remember the size. You might want to bring a seal with you when you buy one, if you don't have it in your toolbox. The crank seal is more dificult. We used a piece of scrap pipe and large "washer" cut out of some scrap steel. For a once every 5 years job, you might want a trusted mechanic to do the job. (there's an oxymoron for you but I have one). You will need some sort of pick or screwdriver to remove the old seal. Be careful you don't scratch where the seal goes. There are bolts in all 3 shafts that can be used to install the seals.

Skip
'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood

For the cost of a socket or the time spent making a tool, you may want to consider buying a new gasket for the carrier that the crank/intermediate seal ride in. Especially if the water pump is out of the way..the time spent scraping old gasket is worth being able to seat the seals from the comfort of a bench. It's at least something to consider.

-nate

"a trusted mechanic to do the job. (there's an oxymoron for you but I have one)." OOOOOOOOOOUCH!! That hurt, but I hear ya.

Believe it or not, most techs I have worked with use a socket that is the right size and drift it in and if that is not an option then you simply tap in gently all the way around with a flat punch. Too bad you can't find someone on the board to borrow them from because they do make it a lot simpler job. There are other boards I belong to that do that sort of thing. I'd loan you mine but I might kind of miss them.

As far as a special pick goes you probably saw my reply on the thread with all of the nice pics, I use a screwdriver. Most people seem to have posted a concern about scratching the shaft and while it is a concern it really does not seem to happen. What you need to really watch for is to not put a fat scratch/gouge in the aluminum housing that you are removing the seals from.

Mark

Do you work at shop here in Fountain Valley?
--
Simon 80 240 307k 18 years. 'White Lightning'

I sure do.

Swedish Independent
16650 Harbor Blvd. #B-11
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714-839-7911

1980 with only 307K on it huh? I liked the '80 year model 240's, it was a good year for K-jet. Kind of after they got most of the bugs worked out of it and just a bit before they went into the early LH systems that were/are such a nightmare.

Mark

My '80 has more miles then your '80.

Heh heh heh...

447K and still going...
--
Proud owner of "The World's Most Famous Volvo Radio!"

Why you little..... Actually for a 240 400000 is the milestone of greatness. 300000 is normal if it is taken care of.
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Simon 80 240 307k 18 years. 'White Lightning'

Dude, you are the man!!

I've got one customer that has about 300K on his car and he is a friggin' loud speaker, we're talking the town crier here. "MY CAR HAS GOT 300,OOO MILES ON IT!!!!" Well he was in the shop one day and butts in between myself and another long time customer and starts gushing about his 300K+ and the other guy politely says "yes, I just rolled over 400K myself". My God you could've heard a pin drop. Poor old guy just hasn't been the same since he found out someone else has got more miles on their V than he does. You know I almost felt sorry for the old fella.

Mark

I'll stop by and say hello. My son bought a 240 that was worked on at your shop. I need to know when the timing belt was done.
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Simon 80 240 307k 18 years. 'White Lightning'

Stop by anytime, I'm usually out to lunch around noon to 1.

Mark