posted by
someone claiming to be robert2
on
Thu Jun 9 05:31 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I did the full trans flush on my auto trans like the board recomends but it didn't really help. It is slipping really badly. Most of my tools are across the country from me and I don't know if I have the right tools to pull a tranny from a junkyard. Would you recomend pulling off the bellhousing with the tranny or just pulling the tranny off at the bellhousing? I need a auto trans that will work in an '89 240, which means it has a different pickup for the speedo than earlier ones. Will all auto trans's out of a 740 have the correct pickup?
Okay so I disconnect the driveshaft, the shifter, the filling tube, the kickdown cable, and the cooler lines, and the crassmember support. Anything else? Would you recomend that I just cut any of those things when removing from the donor car to make the removal process easier? Is their anyway to keep the kickdown cable installed from the donor trans? I have read on this board that it is a pita to hook back up. I only have a couple hours at the Jyard to do this and it is a far ways away which is why I have to ask all of these questions. Thank you very much for your advice and help.
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The auto trans is not like an old M41, you cannot pull just the box and leave the bell housing. I leave the dipstick tube attached, a 700 trans will go in a 240 but there will be an ear left over on the left rear corner of the tail shaft housing, the 240 does not use it so do not worry about it. I would not cut anything to get it out, it should come out pretty quick, even with hand tools. If you have a long (36") extension and some wobbly sockets I would advise that you bring them.
Mark
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I just did this job on the weekend, but I removed the engine and trans together from both cars as there was a lot more work than just swapping transmissions that needed to be done at the time. Yes a 740 tranny will be fine, just make sure you get an AW not the ZF that a few 740s had. They are visibly different. Your best bet is as follows: First pull the drain plug & drain the fluid. While that's draining, get under the hood, disconnect the kickdown cable from the throttle spool. Then undo the 2 nuts securing it to the bracket on the manifold. Tuck this down into the transmission tunnel, gently so as not to crack the housing where it enters the transmission. Remove the dipstick or you'll break it. Remove the disttributor & rotor, to give extra clearance from the head to the firewall. Inside the car, undo the wire for the OD where it enters the shifter housing through a rubber grommet facing the front of the car. Usually, this wire gets cut off under the car then spliced back together, that's fine if you can't get it out & if time is limited, just cut it off as long as possible from the solenoid. Unbolt the driveshaft, you may need to also unbolt the center suppport bearing and slide the entire front shaft out. Unhook the shift linkage (just circlips). Unbolt the cooler lines from the passenger side of the tranny & bend them out of the way. Now, unbolt the tranny crossmember and as you do this the engine & tranny will drop. The head will wedge against the firewall & stop it from dropping further. You need to remove the bell housing brace, 4 bolts straight up into the block & 2 forward through the bell housing. Now you can get at the torque convertor bolts, there are 4 & they're tricky to get to. Rotate the engine with a socket on the crank pulley bolt (or pull the spark plugs & rotate by hand) to get at each of the TC bolts. It's time to remove the bell housing bolts and the 2 that hold the starter in also will (usually) have nuts on the starter side. After the bolts are all out, gently pry the tranny free of the 2 mounting dowels on the block & drop it down. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE TORQUE CONVERTER SLIP FORWARD OUT OF THE TRANNY! It is very hard, sometimes impossible, to properly reengage it to the pump shaft splines. Bend an old wrench a bit & secure it against the TC by means of a nut & bolt through one of the bell housing bolt holes, to hold it in place. And no the tranny can't be removed from the bellhousing without first removing it from the motor, and removing the torque converter, so don't try that approach. Pretty straightforward but a real PITA to get at some of those bell housing bolts, take plenty of long wobble extensions and a u-joint or two, and a good-quality 17mm & 19mm socket, preferably thinwalled. Good luck!
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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posted by
someone claiming to be robert2
on
Thu Jun 9 14:29 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Okay how high does the car have to be for the filler tube to clear the underside? Can I turn the trans on its side to pull it out from under the car? The Junkyard does not allow jacks in it and they have their cars already raised up a bit... but sometimes not enough.
Do I need to undo the engine mounts for the motor and trans to drop? If I buy one of those swivel haed gear wrench's will it reach any of the hard to get bell housing bolts? and if so should I get a 17 or a 19mm one? Will all of the 740 trannys have the right pickup for my speedo or do I have to watch the years on those as well? There always seems to be more decent 740's in the yard than newer 240's which is why I assume that I will be pulling from a 740. Will the torque converter be trying to jump forward because of pressure, or would it slip off if assisted only by gravity? I mean like do I have to grab it before it shoots out or just make sure I secure it before it can slip off? I have done this with manual trans's before but never an auto, and the auto really seems more complicated!
Thank you for the much needed assistance.
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The torque converter will only slide out if tilted down, there's no pressure there. The filler tube may be difficult. It can be removed but the nut securing it is extremely tight. If all else fails, take a hacksaw & cut it off then wrestle with the nut to remove it & replace it with your old one once they're both on the ground in front of you. If you do that take a piece of paper towel or tissue & jam it down the tube with the dipstick so it's below the point where you're cutting it, to keep metal shavings out of your transmission. No speedo pickup on the transmission, it's on the differential cover. If your car uses a cable-driven speedo run from the tailshaft housing of the transmission, you can switch housings & swap the gear in place of the spacer that a newer tranny has. Takes about an extra 10 minutes & a new tailshaft housing gasket, and this is the time to replace the tailshaft seal & bushing - add about $30 to the cost of your repair to have some assurance that you won't need to mess with it again for a while.
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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posted by
someone claiming to be robert2
on
Sat Jun 11 10:55 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Chris, I posted a new post:
There was only one tranny at the j-yard and it had been pulled out when someone pulled the engine. They did not leave the torque converter, but they did a decent job pulling it. The filler tube and kickdown cable were all still intact. It is from a '88 740 wagon and I want to put it in a '89 244. I am worried though that I will not be able to install the torque converter from my car back onto it, but currently I have no other option. What else should I do when I do this trans job? Will I be able to see if oil from my rear engine seal is leaking without pulling off the flywheel?
Please tell me I am not screwed my Canadian Friend...
If you think I can intsall the torque converter I figure I will be able to jack up the car in the driveway high enough to get the dipstick tube under it. I have read too much about that filler tube nut...
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If the rear main seal hasn't been changed within the last 50,000 miles it's a no-brainer to do it now, it'll only take you an extra half hour, tops, and it's cheap. I'd suggest getting that from the dealer though, too many of the aftermarket ones are such a sloppy fit that they'll literally pop out of the seal housing if the flame trap gets plugged. I'm not sure about the torque converter - I've never had to put one back in. The key there as I understand it is to make sure the torque converter splines are aligned correctly on the driveshaft for the pump upon reassembly. And if that shaft seized into the torque converter and pulled out of the pump - located at the back of the transmission - that's the really nasty issue to remedy. So as long as the shaft to drive the pump is intact in the new transmission, and your old torque converter is the same type (ie, locking or non-locking, as designated by an 'L' at the end of the transmission name, AW70L for example is locking) then you should be alright. Just take your time and make sure it's fully seated on the shaft, or things will break when you tighten up the bellhousing bolts.
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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posted by
someone claiming to be robert2
on
Tue Jun 14 04:49 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Okay, I am getting more nervous as the time to do this job gets closer.
Do you think the Elring seals from fcpgroton are okay? Do I do just the seal or the seal housing gasket too? I am going to have the gasket on hand either way. Is taking off the flywheel that easy? I have only worked on older cars where the flywheels weighed like a ton. Is the engine going to drop enough when I undo the trans mount and crossmember for me to do all of this? And where do I look on the trannys to determine if they are both 'L' or not? The new one is stamped Aisin on the starter area.
Again thanks. If this goes well I have two other 240's that need the same thing done that I will finally be able to tackle.
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2 other 240s with dead automatics? How do you do it? I've yet to see an AW tranny actually wear out like you describe unless it's been repeatedly run out of fluid...
If the seal you're referring to is the crank rear main seal, then I wouldn't bother taking the housing off to change the seal, unless that gasket appears to be leaking which is pretty rare in my experience. I'd recommend the dealer for the crank seal but that's because I don't have much experience with other brands except for a couple of horror stories. I know the Volvo part will fit tight & seal properly every time, and for a few dollars in the difference I won't take a chance on doing it twice. You can pretty easily pry the old seal out without scratching the bore or the crank, I use an awl with a 90degree bend to fish it out. Taking off the flex plate (flywheel) is a walk in the park compared to a standard transmission flywheel - it's just a fraction the weight, no problem to hold it in place with one hand while you start the bolts. An electric impact wrench makes the job easier, if you have or can borrow one. And yes, you'll be able to get all the bellhousing bolts out once you lower the transmission crossmember. It will still be tricky and you may need to make a couple of trips to the neighbors to borrow ratchet extensions (1/2", you'll break 3/8 stuff). Generally 36" worth of extensions with a wobble extension at the end will do the job. And the tranny can be identified by an ID plate just above the pan, I believe it's on the driver's side just ahead of the OD solenoid.
-Chris
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Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina
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