posted by
someone claiming to be Vince in Toronto
on
Tue Jun 7 04:43 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
|
|
Does anybody know what is causing my 6 volt battery to swell and leak after driving...
This is a new battery ..Purchased last fall......
after each drive I have to loosen the caps on the battery to relaese the pressure....
Is this normal for B16 6volt systems.....
Thanks in advance for your input....
|
|
-
|
|
Hi Vince. If you're in Toronto, go to a Princess Auto store and get a 6/12 volt battery / charging tester (they're currently on special).
8016416 BATTERY TESTER $ 49.99
• With starter test feature and charging system tester
• Make a complete evaluation of any 6 or 12V battery in 30 seconds
• Performs present V test, puts 10 sec. load on battery, checks charge and tests charging circuit while engine is running
• Rated at 1,000 cold cranking amps
• Convenient handle with clamp holders
Regular Price: $89.99
Weight: 3.7 lbs
I'd venture to guess that your voltage regulator is not stopping the charging process and this in turn is being transferred directly to your battery. If you have a simple DC voltage meter, you'll probably see the stored voltage over 6 volts in your battery, since they are designed to accept up to 8 volts, but yours appears over that limit. Years ago, my father would drive with his lights on, during a long trip, to prevent overcharging in a generator equipped car - try turning on the lights, radio, fan to bleed off the extra voltage. Princess also sells inexpensive gauges that may also warn you if this reoccurs once you've tracked down the cause.
Also, there's a distinct possibility the generator and voltage regulator are 12 volt. Bonne chance.
--
Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM
|
|
-
|
|
|
OR...
Loosen (not remove) the cell caps, start it up and drive it to a nearby place that checks charging systems. Saves you $50 unless you plan on using it regularly.
Then go by whatever they say is happening (probably new regulator, but wouldn't it be nice to KNOW?).
--
Mike!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Mike, that would actually save you $40 US! I guess I like to be more in "charge" (pun intended), since I trust my abilities more than the nearby garages that may not even know that once all cars had 6 volt, generator based charging systems. Seriously, I prefer to always do what I call "first level problem determination" and such a testing device will not only allow you to problem solve 6 volt problems, but also electrical/battery problems on 12 volt cars as well. That's my 2 cent's worth, or more accurately $40.02 worth.
--
Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM
|
|
-
|
|
|
Right you are. I watch and ask lots of stupid questions "How do you set it for 6-volt? Is 6-volt common? Does it matter is the red lead is on the ground or not for a positive ground vehicle?" etc.
I agree and would snap up such a diagnostic tool for my "fleet" if a good price comes along, too. I just wonder if a person who may only use it once in ten years really needs to purchase one?
Alternatives abound, I like to use them for added info. Being a skeptic I rarely do as "advised" or at least not right away ;)
--
Mike!
|
|
-
|
|
|
Yes Mike, I do not spend frivolously either, but I do have a pair of 6 volt Volvos and there may be another one started soon, hopefully with a B4B as well. Actually I was out in British Columbia in April and met Olof Malmberg, a.k.a. Vintage Import Parts (duett445). He offered it to me for $10 Canadian and I couldn't resist. There are superimposed scales for 6 volt and 12 volt. This is essentially just a volt meter, but when you throw the load switch (heavy coil inside), this tests the charging circuit and by holding the toggle switch you see if there are any faults on the circuit. It's rather simple, but did confirm that I had a 6 volt battery that would not hold a charge.
--
Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM
|
|
-
|
|
no, it's not normal... sounds to me like your battery is getting overcharged, and it's something you must deal with soon! Your new battery will soon be shot, and it's also not safe. Check voltage when its running.
Probably an issue with your voltage regulator. Any chance you've got a 12v generator in there? Perhaps someone did a partial conversion to 12v without you knowing it? Definitely gotta sort that out asap whatever it is...
--
-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
|
|
-
|
|
Would also suggest that until you have it figured out and fixed, keep the battery disconnected.
Someone once told me the biggest cause of car fires years ago was faulty voltage regulators that had "welded" themselves shut. Don't know if it's true or not.
Does sound like some kind of overcharging issue though. Even still, the new battery should be vented and not holding pressure.
--
'86 745T, '72 144E, '70 145S, '68 220S, '60 544
|
|
-
|
|
|
I had an overcharging issue with my 122 this past winter... turned out the gong noise I heard one morning was one of the cell covers blowing off and hitting the underside of the hood...
Voltage when running was over 18... Granted, the battery is vented. But it'll still boil over, cause the release of dangerous flamable gasses, and significantly shorten battery life in short order...
--
-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
|
|
-
posted by
someone claiming to be barongrey
on
Tue Jun 7 06:47 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
|
|
All this is true: you seem to have an overcharging problem.
If you have a generator with an older style regulator, the points within the regulator are most likely welded shut, allowing the generator to keep pouring more electricity into the battery than it was designed to hold.
Do a voltage check across the battery teminals with the engine running. You should not show more than 8 volts. If you're getting a higher readking, check the generator and voltage regulator to verify their voltage. You may have a 12-volt component in there by mistake.
If both devices are 6 volts, go buy a new voltage regulator and install it. This is somewhat more complicated than just bolting it down and plugging in the wires, so read and follow the directions.
In the 'old days' checking the voltage output of the charging system was a normal part of any tune-up. The voltage regulators used then were prone to either eroding the points or welding them together, resulting in either too low or too high a charge rate. You could clean and re-set the points then. I don't think you can do that anymore, although checking the voltage should still be a part of a good tune-up.
|
|
-
|
|
You can adjust the voltage the regulator will target by bending the tab that holds the spring. If the points aren't stuck abd the windings in the electromagnet pulling on the points isn't toast, you could always just bend that tab until you get the proper voltage.
--
I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
|
|
|
|
|
