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My ignition on a '65 w/armored cable sometimes (usually when engine warm, rarely when cold) only starts as the key returns from start to the on position. I'm suspecting warn connections in the ignition switch.
Can these be serviced by remove the lock cylinder, or must I separate the two-part crimped metal housing the switch goes in??
Am I on the right track? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance.
Mark Sloo
Minneapolis, MN
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Mark;
I would agree with your assessment of the symptoms. You've had luck sofar and your key has survived your IGN switch (typically it's the other way around!). In your case, a Start Switch Upgrade would (cheaply and effectively) bypass what we both suspect to be a worn contact. There is no access to the electrical contacts, even after removing the lock cylinder. Everything has a limited life expectancy, but a Start Switch increases both the key's AND the STARt contact...the IGN ON contact in the switch is not switching that much inductive load current and so mostly endures mechanical wear...the START contact on the other hand is always making and breaking a heavy inductive load current which causes arcing and contact erosion...
I would totally dissagree with the Tom's statement that "most old Volvo's had to dump the armored cable..."...based on what does he make this statement?...has he taken a survey or is he making sweeping generalities from his own experience (how big is his sample?). Maybe we should do an impromptu survey here...I've NEVER had to replace an IGN switch*, nor has anyone that I can think of in my immediate group of acquintances (and we have/had a LOT of 544/122/1800 between us. Can those people who have installed a Start Switch be heard from please.... Futher, his statement that the armored cable needs to be removed when installing an electronic ign is also not correct.
* ...have had a number of key problems though, but that's a different issue...and since all my cars have Start Switches now, I've since NEVER had an issue...
Further info: http://www.intelab.com/swem/service%20notes.htm#Body
Cheers
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One of the three 120s I've owned had the original coil and switch converted, the first one, which was a '67. Spindly brass key, STRONG springs in the (adequately lubed)switch mechanism. I had broken two keys and been stranded miles from home by that time.
I hacked through the armored cable for the original wiring, mounted a nondescript coil and a generic switch with a threaded bezel that clamped it through the original hole in the dash.
If there had been a kit to mount a starter pushbutton, I would have used it in a heartbeat.
No problem with my '65 or '66.
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I have a 64 P220 and a 66 P130. The 64 one has a Nieman lockset and the the 66 has an ASSA . The 64 came with what looks like an original Volvo Key and the ASSA came with 4 almost broke keys, 3 broke keys and and 2 good ones. Both have what appear to be original coil, though!!
The 64 has far less resistance in the assembly.
Both have starter buttons (thanks Ron).
Mike
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My, my, my, but this seems to be a heated topic (for some strange reason). My limited sample has also been damage by POs. Perhaps they had a good reason, perhaps they were nuts but the end result was the same: four 122s, four aftermarket ignitions (and all but one VERY poorly executed).
Of course, I am pretty new to the "scene" and have never owned a volvo of any flavor from new (or even close to it).
--
Mike!
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I can't say I've ever had the switch itself fail in a pre-140 series Volvo, but it sounds like that is the case here. But I certainly have replaced 'em due to broken lock/tumbler assembly, broken key issues, and bad coils...
I'm planning on going with the SWEM kit or something similar before next winter in mine... a remote starter switch is just about a must have I think...
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-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC
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I have had two 122s and never had to replace a switch, but on my old 1964 122 sedan I did install a push button on the underside of my dash after I broke a key.
Now considering the button for my 1963 122 I presently drive, especially for next winter when it sometimes takes a bit of turning over before it starts in cold weather.
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OK, my experience is far less than yours and a lot of other people here. I have two Volvos and both of them had had the ignition switches replaced by previous owners, and I had to replace one of these as well. And since I had to have access to the ignition wire to install my Crane Cams electronic ignition system, and I know a lot of Volvos have them installed, I assumed that there are a lot of old Volvos without the armored cable.
Personally, I don't think the armored cable is very good theft protection. If a thief is prepared he can cut into it fairly easily.
But, if you like to keep things original, I can understand wanting to keep the cable. But it sure gets in the way when you have a problem with the ignition switch or want to replace that old coil with one with a bajillion volts.
Tom
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Two 544s
Four 122s
Two 1800s
One 1800es
No ignition switches ever replaced by me. One of the 544s already had an aftermarket ignition switch when it was purchased.
Experienced one key breakage problem in a 122. SWEM ignition switch kit resolved problem.
Joe M
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If you are willing to give up the armored cable, you can just get a new ignition switch. Your neighborhood auto parts store will have a universal ignition switch that will work perfectly for about $15. The ignition switch has a limited lifetime, and it sounds like yours is at its end. If you get a new one, just make sure it springs back to on from the start position and a turn the other way accessory position. You will get a new key, but that's ok, the ignition key is not supposed to match the door keys anyway. Most old volvos have had to dump the armored cable at some time or other, either because of the switch dying or as a result of an electronic ignition installation.
Tom
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I went this route (of course the PO had already started me down the road... previous post). Very pleased with result.
--
Mike!
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