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Hi all,
I've been working on an alternator upgrade for my 122.
My alternator is a Bosch 55 amp unit from a 1975 245 with a B20, Fuel Injection and AC. It has the folloing connectors:
DF (spade connector)
B+ (a bolt and eye connector)
61/D+ (a bolt and eye connector)
D- (Ground connection, also a bolt and eye connector)
My Voltage Regulator is a Paris Rhone, made in France, "YL412A" "12V"
It also says "Do Not Connect Field to Ground" on the side. It only has two connectors which are labeled thus:
61+ (spade connector)
EXC (small bolt and eye connector)
What I've done so far following the IPD instructions:
Lengthened the proper wires, modified the alternator tightening bracket.
(these numbers follow the IPD instrctions)
(4) Ran the heavy duty starter-connected wire to the B+ connector on the alternator.
(5) Ran a smaller wire from the B+ back to the positive terminal on the battery (supposed to eliminate the glowing amp light when running many accessories)
(6) Ran the existing red AMP light wire to D+ on the regulator (D+ was the spade terminal labeled "61+" on the regulator).
Here's where I'm having trouble. It tells me to "Run the Second Wire on D+ on the Regulator (this is from "61") to terminal 61 on the Alternator. I only have one D+/61 connector on the Regulator. Am I supposed to fork/splice a second wire in here? Is this just a confusing typo, it implies that I have a second D+ terminal, but I do not. My regulator only has two connectors.
(7) Ran a wire from DF on the alternator to DF (EXC) on the regulator
(8) Ground the Alternator (D-) to the Car (haven't done this yet).
So, am I right that I just need to connect two wires to the 61/D+ terminal on the Regulator, or is something wrong??
--
Volvo #6: all wagons.... 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 GL, 1986 740 GLE, 1990 740 GL, now a 1995 940...
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posted by
someone claiming to be shayne
on
Mon Jun 6 05:53 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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So, am I right that I just need to connect two wires to the 61/D+ terminal on the Regulator...?
Yes, piggyback terminal or splice them together on one terminal.
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Are you *that* shayne?
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You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?
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posted by
someone claiming to be shayne
on
Tue Jun 7 05:31 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Yeah. Hi!
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I got it all hooked up. Still unsure about the two wires going to the 61/D+ terminal on the voltage regulator, but I decided to try it anyway.
The car seems to be getting plenty of electricity, but now I'm getting an amp light that glows dimly when the car is ilding, and rather bright when I turn on various accessories. However, it's not entirely consistent, it has been somewhat variable in it's intensity.
A glowing AMP light is a new experience on this car. While it had a stock generator, a second fusefox seems to prevent the most signs of powerloss. The light hardly ever glowed with the old generator. I can't really get a good sense of what's going on here, but I did follow the IPD installation instructions very carefully. I also have a nifty little aftermarket led light voltage indicator which shows green when I have plenty of electricty, yellow when I'm starting to lose it, and red when the system is not being charged. I did not unhook it, but I'm not seeing much activity from it anymore. a dull green, not much else. Green's not as bright as it used to be, but it's not giving me a red light either.
Another possible contributor are worn alternator brushes. I pulled the brush assembly from the alternator and the upper brush is rather worn down, while the lower brush is still in great shape.
I idled the car for the better part of an hour, drove it around the block with the lights and fan going at full. Afterwards, I idled it until it started getting dark. In my past experience with faulty charging systems, there were usually some problems. Lights would interefer with the engine's rpms, lights would brighten or dim with the idle. These things were not happening so either the electrical requirements are so low as to not matter, or maybe the battery hasn't lost enough juice to cause and ill effects.
I'm still not sure about the wiring to the regulator. I have to no way to test it. but I suspect that something is not quite right.
I seem to have lost all my indicator and clearance lights, but I don't think that problem is related. Headlights, turn signals, reverse and brakelights all work fine. I'm posting on this problem separately.
ALso, the car sat with an unhooked battery for approximately 2 weeks while I hunted up a voltage regulator.
--
Volvo #6: all wagons.... 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 GL, 1986 740 GLE, 1990 740 GL, now a 1995 940...
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This is probably a dum question but is the regulator you got a BOSCH regulator
or a Motorola/SEV/Marchal regulator? They are NOT compatible! If you got a
Bosch alternator you need a Bosch regulator.
I'm not sure all the extra wires are necessary or even desirable. Much of the
problem of amp light glowing is due to poor conductivity between laminations
in the fuse block or poor connections to the fuse that serves the amp light,
turn indicator, etc.
BTW I'm still using the generator and happy with it.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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You responded while I was posting about my new glowing amp light issue.
I not sure about the regulator. It was a 140 series regulator, which I figured would be a bosch. It's not a "bosch" brand regulator, so I don't know.
Seems to be working okay, I just have a heavy glowing amp light now.
What wiring would you suggest that I omit? The wire back to the battery from the B+ seems like a likely candidate, but the others seem to have useful purposes.
--
Volvo #6: all wagons.... 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 GL, 1986 740 GLE, 1990 740 GL, now a 1995 940...
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This is probably a dum question but is the regulator you got a BOSCH regulator
or a Motorola/SEV/Marchal regulator? They are NOT compatible! If you got a
Bosch alternator you need a Bosch regulator.
I'm not sure all the extra wires are necessary or even desirable. Much of the
problem of amp light glowing is due to poor conductivity between laminations
in the fuse block or poor connections to the fuse that serves the amp light,
turn indicator, etc.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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posted by
someone claiming to be shayne
on
Mon Jun 6 05:51 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I'm not sure all the extra wires are necessary or even desirable. Much of the
problem of amp light glowing is due to poor conductivity between laminations
in the fuse block or poor connections to the fuse that serves the amp light,
turn indicator, etc.
For what it's worth:
I had seen this "redundant" wire on another Amazon in the past and at that time thought, "well, ain't hurtin' nothin."
After buying a brand new fuse box, I found no change in my dull-glow-amp-lite.
Thought I'd add to the 40 year old wiring, couldn't hurt. The glow was not so much after adding the redundant wire.
No doubt all Amazons that haven't by now, should get a new or rebuilt fuse box, rebuilt distributor (vacuum module or not) and Carbs at the very least:o)
Shayne.
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Hi Shayne ..... According to my Volvo Guy ... the glowing AMP light is one of those "Optional, at no extra cost" items that VOLVO installs for your driving entertainment ..... ;-)
Brett
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Brett Sutherland & the 1.5 million mile 122 CANADIAN www.ecvintagevolvo.com
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posted by
someone claiming to be shayne
on
Tue Jun 7 11:32 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I already have electronic ignition on mine.
What are your pro/con opinions on the extra wire. I'm not sure it is making any difference. It was easy to wire up and is easy to disconnect if need be.
--
You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?
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