http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg
http://img58.echo.cx/img58/5040/duelcarn2ax.jpg
http://img58.echo.cx/img58/3372/nameplate1ij.jpg
http://img163.echo.cx/img163/5495/dsc001375jo.jpg
color code 109
year 1972
164,000 miles not km
location winterpeg canada.
seats are all toren up but leather shame to
age 17 this is my first car was geven to me bye my mother who bought it in 94 for 400$ grate camping car just tobad it has sat for 5 years starts like a charm. the rear driver side wheel well is rusted out in side back side windows frame is rusting spare tire area has been patched at some point with fiber glass trany wines like crazzy
driver side vizer need to be replace won't stay up roof rack mising front supot bar front door vent windowsirors are starting to turn red locks have falen off and one is busted. gluve department is crokked dash bord is not craked has origonal am radio for the car it not in it at the moment though.

i wish i had a manual for the car


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72 145s

anyways the 28th was my 18th bday and i did some more work on the car took the battery out and started to patch the hole under there and cleaned the mud out and started to reinforce the head light opening unfornatly we cuvered up were the spring ataches to would like a pic of the exact location to uct a new for for it lol since i forgto to get a pic of it lol.

another thing i wana do is build some speaker boxes for the back subs ect pimp this thing out and put a setup for an ipod in and play my dance music lol nuthing over kill being the stock front speaker is worn out the tape deck i got in it is a pos

would a new cd mp3 sat radio deck work with my car?
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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

You can put anything you want in the dash of one of these. if you have a tape deck in it, your's has probably been modified already. My speakers were never so good, but the stock speakers are trash. Wire up some 4" units in your door panel (can only fit in the front near the top of the panel). My 145 had 9" oval speakers in the rear cargo area walls. one in the metal spare tire cover, and one in the masonite right side panel. I tell you, as long as you've got a car full of holes, your speakers will never sound very good. Too much road noise.

Anyway, I had a tape deck in the dash and a portable CD player setup that was held to the drive tunnel by velcro. worked great for an adapted setup. I put an amp behind the center console, but it never looked or sounded very good. I also tried it inside the glove box, but that was troublesome as well. Later 140s had a much more logical center console than the 72s.

BTW. My 145 was driven off a gravel road into a drainage ditch in a farm field (by a friend who was a "learner") It bent the fender (a little) and put us into a hole deeper than the car was long. Even sitting at 60 degree front angle and a 25 degree side angle, the car fired right up tried to pull us out. If its rear tires had both been touching ground, I think it would have hauled us back out. A farmer finally happened by (hours later) and pulled us out. I drove it home, pulled the fender back out and she was perfect again.

The only time I couldn't get the car started in cold weather was when it was glazed with nearly 1 cm of ice, It wouldn't start because I couldn't get inside of the car.

When it supposedly "threw a rod." I cranked it and it still tried to fire up.
It's *hard* to kill a 140. The joke is that after a 140 is in an accident, they sponge off the dashboard and put it back on the car lot for sale.

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You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?

i wana be able to listen to my trance techno dance music lol but ya i might just put some speakers in the door when i take the panels off to clean out the bottom of the doors all of them to help prevent them from rusting out as for the rear i might just run a proper cable to ther and rig up somthing that i can but a proper box there that can be loked down and be removed lol somthing to put all thoughs crapy ford torus's with huge as sterios at school to shame lol hmm hmm but if i am going to do that i gota get a set of keys for the door locks any sugestons on that
but i gota be able to still camp in this car to and haul the canoe. it also has a traler hitch lol

how do i take off the molding on the car with out destroying them and puting them back on.
the roof between the front and the roof racks is slightly sinking in a bit noticed this also a car that was at the recors few years back how do i stop/fix that why would it do that?
are the decrotive roof racks on the 245's the same as the ones on the 145's?
needs cuple parts to fix mine 1 peace is broken and one rode is missing

today we did some patch work on the front drivers side fender. first we shuved some fibor glas filler in were theres a hole in the uper front bye were the hood closes and smoothed it out and the we put on body filler over it and saned it and then put some more on and saned it but still needs a tingy bit more filler to fill in the inpefections. around the gaping hole around were the uper turing light used to be we riveted some galvinized sheet metal for a backing for the body filler we put in. question should i cut a hole for the turning light to go back in or just leave it and when i do the right fender take the uper turning light out and fill it in also?
we took the drivers side head light holder and head light to clean out this area all rusted out in there it looks so weird with out 1 head light in it and with the grill outa it behind were the grill sits we painted it with black rust proofing paint to protect that area
has to get some pics of what me and my dad have done so far to this car any ways yawns going to bed
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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

Wow, nostalgia.

When I was 19, I bought my second car, and my 1st Volvo. I've never owned anything but volvos since. In 1994, I bought a rusty (not quite as bad as yours) yellow 145s for $400.00 (must have been the going rate in 1994, eh?)
I drove it for 4 years before I gave it to my Father (who needed a car). Dad drove it for a year or so and then thought the car threw a rod, so away she went to a salvage yard. In retrospect it probably wasn't a rod, probably something with those SU Carbs, but I was too poor and too busy to try and tackle it at that time.

The biggest complain I had on my 145 was rusted out body. My rocker pannels were gone, the wheel-wells weer rusted through, and the floor pans were half gone in the rear. This all added up to sucking a lot of exhaust into the car. I replaced seals, stuffed rags into holes, but I could never stop the exhaust getting in. I ended up driving it around with the rear seat windows down in order to suck out the fumes before they got to the front seat. It works pretty well, but I'd concentrate your efforts in getting you holes sealed up before the Carbon Monoxide gets you.

Aside from the fumes, be sure your heater valve is good (inside firewall up above your gas pedal). They leak and the water will rust out your front floor pans. The salvage yard valve are usually leaky. You can get a new one from a dealer for around $40.00 (at least in 1995, you could).

Steel 245 Wheels will bolt right to your hubs, which I did and was very happy as the wheels were a bit closer to the corners of the car.

In my case, the steering assembly was always causing troule. I had to have it serviced ever year or two for worn out bushings and similar problems.

If I recall, the B20 is known to shake quite a bit, so be sure your valve lifters are properly adjusted and it will keep the engine vibration down.

Be sure your ignition points are godd, those will cause a lot of annoying poor performance issues.

As a final note, many of the 140's parts from behind the firewall to the tailgate will fit on a 245 - glass, hinges, etc. So if you ever give up on the car be sure to save the valuable parts for possible 245.

Enjoy.



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You mean Volvo makes cars that are *NOT* Wagons?!?

txs the engin runs realy good you can fire it up in the midle of -30 below even when you forget to plug it in the engin runs great witch is the main resonqhy were
it being fixed up shame the rust has taken off the way it has hope i can personly get another 3 year outa this baby my self since i working on geting my licences has my lerners sofar steering wheel is cracked the dash is not cracked though when this baby dies i gues i should pull it all apart sell off the parts that are still usable and in good shape. has to clean the doors out full of crap inside lucky they havent rusted out yet cept for the drivers door is starting to rust i am in need of new sun visors i was actuly asking for tire sizes i like the stock rims planing on cleaning them all upwish i had 20k to poor into this baby hmm if only i had the money to do it o well i will just do it the good old way of foam and rivits and body fill

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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

an update started to patch the gapeing hole in the rear drivers side wheel well that is hiden bye the door with rivits and tin and then will fibr glass it over
and do the other side wheel well
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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

umm when the time comes to replacing the tires what tire sizes will fit on my car with the stok rims
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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

Ignoring the rust, it looks pretty good. The price is right!
Have fun with it. Watch ebay for a manual- get the green Volvo manual
for your year. (It does make a difference!)
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

txs for the info i noticed that the floor planels are rusting good to total noob lol. what the best way to fix the rust with exstreamly small budget for the floor panels
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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

This will be a good opportunity for you to practice your welding.
(I had been welding for a couple years at your age.)
Get some sheet iron, about 18 gauge. Take out all the bad stuff and weld the
sheet iron in its place. Your sheet metal shop may be willing to cut it to shape for you if you make cardboard templates of what you need. (This is a bit oversimplified, but that is what needs to be done.) You will need to be careful of gas lines, brake lines, cables and other things under the floor, both when you cut the rusty stuff out and when you put the new stuff in. Appropriate heat shields will be a big help.

It will make it a lot easier if you remove all the seats and seat frames while
you do this. Also be ready for a few stiff muscles. I didn't do a job like this until after I had been wearing bifocals for a few years and I can tell you that it is much harder at that stage of your life both in terms of seeing what
you are doing and also in body contortions. OTOH I was in a car less roomy than yours, a 66 122 wagon.
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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

txs my dad has a crapy wire rod welder as he calls it.
umm 16 gadge what does that mean exactaly?

what do bifocals have to do with welding???



were can i find a new sun viser mine won't stay up


what kinda balbs do the signal lights take? the right hand front side are both burnt out head lights are still good


my gas pedal hindge rusted out what shoud i do about that? the plastick peac also proak of got a tie rap on it now to slide it on the aluminum rod for now put it is wobly and is anoying

dash is not cracked the fake wood panel is fading the stearing wheel is cracked
the horn leave on the right side part of it broke :-(.

the windows are loose in there tracks i noticed.

windshield has a chip in it has weird lines through it in upside down L shape going both diretions why is that?

location winnipeg (winterpeg skieterpeg killerpeg slurpeepeg ect)
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72 145s http://img28.echo.cx/img28/9246/frontsideright4zd.jpg

George, it makes my eyes hurt to even read about bifocals and confined spaces, under-dash work, welding...

Just for grins: my piano-tuner friend, Shirley -- always clever -- had eyeglasses ground with correction at the TOP (as well as the bottom), to ease working overhead. (Bi-bi-focals?) I'd like a pair about 1/10 of the time when working in oddball places. Seems to me that if anyone intends to live long, this is the kind of thing you would buy early and use often, rather than doing without, and later saying "Why didn't I do this ages ago?!"

Like a shop vac, air compressor, power thickness planer (oops! don't know the equivalent for you metals-oriented guys), etc. :-)

My father-in-law, Hother (Bud) (Swede) Olsen had them for looking at overhead
shoe boxes. I use high-cut bifocals now that focus at about 14" and take them
off to read fine print. Being nearsighted sometimes has benefits.

Milling machine, shaper.

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George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!